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By Sk3rn
#755
Is there any way of testing the O2 Heater Sensor Circuit on a 2010 Bullet EFI?
This is the error I get from counting the blinks.

I've enquired about a new lambda but Watsonia want £150. Are these pretty standard if the connector fits? They're on e-bay for £40.

Any guidance greatly received.

By trevorch
#14404
Hi,

I have the factory workshop manual, but it offers little help. There are two O2 faults, the sensor and the sensor heater, if the latter, it could be a faulty connection. Aside from that, the only other information is the tightening torque 24.5+/- 4.9 N-m.

Hope someone else knows more. Cheers Trevor
By Norm
#14407
I know nothing about these and I'm taking a wild stab in the dark but I think I read somewhere that these sensors were not being fitted to the home markets bikes but this was only causing them problems at high altitudes. Low altitudes they were not a problem
By trevorch
#14409
Hi SK3M and Norm,

My EFI had small problem in very cold weather causing the engine to cut out after starting and before it has warmed up. The O2 sensor needs about 90 seconds to reach working temperature and temporarily it runs at some preset value. I note that when the Power Commander is fitted, then the O2 sensor is removed, so it is not essential though without it I don't think the exhaust emissions would be legal. Since the Lambda sensor is a component that must be used by all modern car and bike engines, it would seem probable that cheaper replacements are available elsewhere. Many of us are still lacking experience with the EFI motor, it follows that the more we can learn and share about them, so much the better. Regards TrevorCH
By Les H
#14410
http://ngkntk.co.uk/index.php/technical ... rs/....You will need an oscilloscope to analyse the voltage output from the sensor. Dealers will have the appropriate tester and will check it for you at a charge. Otherwise buy the 40 quid one....probably exactly the same as the Enfield one...if problem still the same, you will have a new spare for the future as they all eventually fail.
By Sk3rn
#14444
Thanks all for your posts.

I have been on the NGK website too Les funnily enough. It's the heater circuit that's failed according to the ECU and when the two white wires are tested it's showing an open circuit, so something has gone.

For future reference I have been in correspondence with NGK and the AZD0101-VB001 fitted to the bike has not been made available to the UK aftermarket and so is only available through the Royal Enfield Dealer Network. Our hosts have quoted £120 which is better than my dealer but still not cheap.
There is an AZD0101-VB004 which has the same sensor body, half lead length and maybe a different connector (both of which can be rectified) available in UK for £63 so I'll be giving this a go.

I'll keep you posted.

By trevorch
#14448
That is useful information, even if not good news. You can buy them from France, but they quote 181 Euro, which is still too much. sometimes OEM's give big discounts to dealers buying in quantity. I saw elsewhere, that such sensors on a car are recommended to replace at 30,000 km, so yours seems a very early failure. The French supper only gives a one year warranty, but if your bike is less than two years old maybe Watson Squire might at least offer you a discounted price. Let us know how you get on with the 63GBP version. This also points to the fact that some petrol additives might also do more harm than good, also anything you put in the tank that adds lead to the mixture. I will stick with good quality 95 oct. and hope for the best. Regards Trevor
By Sk3rn
#14897
Update - Bought an AZD0101-VB004 in the end from RoadRunner Autoparts Ltd for £55.95 including recorded delivery. Not the quickest at dispatching but the best price I could find.
The lead length is about half the original but is enough to reach the connector under the tank. The connector is exactly the same as original.

Just installed it and turned the key and the MIL light goes out and stays out. Bike started fine but not taken it on a run yet.

The original part should have been under warranty but it was cross threaded on original installation at the factory. My dealer said if it looks like I could have done it then the man from warranty would say no.

Anyways, I'm not recommending the use of this non factory fitted part, just letting you know what I've done. If the bike runs like a dog on the next trip out I'll be back to delete this thread :)

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