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By Norm
#1364
Hi Alan,
I have finished the wiring on the cafe racer and I have the headlight running directly off the battery. I ended up with a complete rewire but I can now detail the moves required (I think)It is a bit messy but it can be done with a bit of solder and heat shrink.Let me know if you want to follow it up.
By Norm
#18849
No need to get nervous Leon, I'm busy working on my VFR and because it is a Honda it doesn't have wiring problems
By Alan R
#18873
Hi there, NORM !!----------------- yes please, hit me with your wiring wisdom ( groan !!)--------- Do you still have my E-Mail address ?? (thegreatbear,--etc, etc )I have 5 gallons of Bakers Fluid, 1 ton of cored solder and a 2" square x 6" long copper soldering iron, AT THE READY !!..... Let's do it.
By Norm
#18875
Alan, I see you made no mention of the 40 feet of heatshrink you will require. Better give me your email address again, not sure where it ended up
By Alan R
#18878
Hi NORM---- you call it}--- 40 feet of heatshrink ---------- I know it as the week end condom !! LoL. I'm at the other end of}----- [email protected] ------ Have a look at this}----- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GWR_111_The_Great_Bear ------ I'm currently designng and building one of these in 5" gauge ( 1.0625" per foot scale)--------------and look at this}----- http://homepage.ntlworld.com/wilfred.ba ... t_bear.htm -----------------
By Norm
#18903
Hi Les, I've rewired a couple of Bullets recently and am running the headlight off the battery but these were rewires. What I'm trying to do is convert the existing wiring with as few mods as possible to achieve this. When you have time can you look at the wiring diagrams and see how my thinking is working. Fistly take the yellow/orange and purples and combine them and run through a Boyer powerbox as discussed previously. This takes care of the battery charging. Now I think that by removing the A/C reg because it isn't needed now and connecting the yellow which was going to the stator and connecting this to the battery positive it should power the headlight. Any thoughts?
By Hemant
#18946
Hi Norm, I am trying to rewire my rebuild of 1958, 350 and have drawn up a wiring diagram (modified from new models with indicators), At the same time changing to 12V from 6V. Can have a look to see if it will do the job... before I need the use Leon Novello regulator !! can email scan pdf...please mail me on hemant(at)madasafish.com.. cheers..
By Norm
#19105
Thanks Hemant,
I have no problem rewiring a bike, what I am trying to achieve for others is to see if the later E/S Bullets that have the motor runninmg/headlight on setup can be easily converted back to a battery run headlight with as little altering of the wiring as possible. I believe the factory set it up this way so that you wouldn't flatten the battery using the headlight so you would still have power for the electric start which in many cases no longer works and everybody is running around with a big battery and replacing them which is no longer needed because the electric start doesn't work
By Les H
#19111
Hi Norm. Sorry for the late reply I hadn’t spotted your direct question to me until just now. I note you say that: after feeding the Powerbox from the twinned up alternator outputs....it will take care of the battery charging”. Well yes and no. You still have to get the output to the battery, and this can be done by feeding the battery directly from the powerbox or via the ammeter which is what most owners would prefer, as you will be able to monitor that you are getting a balanced charge to the battery. For this preferred method, the ammeter can be kept in circuit by feeding the original Red/Yellow wire that was connected to the original Regulator unit by the Positive Output from the Boyer Powerbox. This is the simplest method as everything else will work the same apart from having the headlight DC powered. To have the headlight DC powered. (You can then remove the AC regulator and the old rect/reg unit/s) ...Then use the Yellow wire to feed the headlight via the dipswitch. The yellow wire (that has been disconnected at the Alternator coil end) at the nacelle end can be fed from and taken to the same terminal on the ammeter as the aforementioned Red/Yellow wire that is terminated on. This will give ammeter response to the headlight current drawn and let you see the balance from the alternator obtained when it’s charging in excess to all current being consumed. As said on other threads, the old amber at the headlight bulb connector should be changed to become a normal earth return. If this is NOT the set up you want let me know. BTW. I am using the Page 62 "12v, AC,DC" wiring diagram in the Bullet Service Guide for your reference.

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