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[Spitting Bull]

Hi all. I'd be grateful for any advice, experiences, things to watch out for etc, concerning fitting of new steering head bearings. This job is going to be a first time one for me, so any tips will be more than welcome.

One specific question is - do I have to remove the entire casquette for this job?

Tom

[Jon64]

Hi Spitting Bull,

You will have to remove the casquette to do the steering head bearings as the top race will need to be drifted from it.
If you have a bench you could probably take the forks, mudguard and wheel out in one part if you remove the steering stem nut and loosen the lower pinch bolts. But it's probably easier to remove the parts singularly. Its not hard to disconnect the wiring behind the headlamp, just take notes/photo's if needed for guidance on reassembly.
You will need the tool for undoing the fork stanchions, if you haven't one, the hex bar fixing the rider footrest on, under the engine, will fit, using two spanners to aid turning it.
The races need to be forced out using a suitable drift, and will need drifting back in with something soft (wood block or a copper mallet) to prevent damage.
19 balls are fitted top and bottom, a good dollop of grease will hold them in place while fitting everything back together.

Hope the above helps.

Good luck, Regards, Jon

[Spitting Bull]

Thanks Jon, for that clear description. This evening I got well on with the preparation for fitting the new bearings when they arrive. When I carry on tomorrow the next job will be unscrewing the fork legs.

Tom

[Alan R]

Hi matey !!----------- can I just ask WHY you are changing the bearings ?? Has the bike had a front-end smack, if so the frame will need a check over first I would have thought ?? Try using a 13mm, 1/2" drive hexagon bit from a standard socket set,worked for me last month. ALSIO, while the stanchions are off give some thought to fitting our hosts progressive front springs }-----------------PART No. DESCRIPTION PRICE
144219A FORK SPRING, SOFT, UK MADE **Sold as PAIR** £26.00 ---------------------they do make for a more comfortable front end. Finally--taper roller bearings give a much stronger set up. Be seeing you----------

[Norm]

Alan, they are probably worn out, in the last few months I have changed them in an A10,A65,Guzzi and 2 Series 2 Inters, must be something in the air I think

[Spitting Bull]

Norm's right - the bearings are wearing out, producing "excessive notchiness" resulting in an MOT failure. Alan, I agree about the better quality of the roller sets, but it's at a price I can't afford, I'm afraid. If the replacement ball bearings last for 24,000 miles like the the ones being replaced, I won't grumble.

I am thinking about the progressive springs, though. The problem is that although I'm sure they're a better product than the standard springs, I don't have any problems with the present set-up, so it's a question of, "do I really need them?" However, as you say, while the forks legs are off............. Best wishes - Tom

[MadMike]

SB...a price you cannot afford???? Taper roller bearings from any bearing factor are as cheap as chips and will last for 3 or 4 times the life of balls and cups. Make the change you will not regret it. It will also give you more confidence in the front end.

[Spitting Bull]

Mike, I only looked as far as our host's catalogue, part number 92596. Taper Roller Bearing Conversion (Indian models) - £150.00 plus VAT plus postage. That's what I can't afford!................... Tom

[MadMike]

SB that is a lotta money for a pair of standard roller bearings that cost about £8 to £12 to buy, even if they have been "specially modified". Take out the cups and measure the diameter and depth of the recess in the headstock. Measure the size of the bottom/top yoke spindle and see if a standard bearing is available. Failing that get some useful chap with a lathe to turn up a couple of adaptors or spacers to make the bearings fit.

[Spitting Bull]

Well the new bearing sets arrived this morning and they are now in. I now have plenty of time to get the bike back to the MOT station for a retest without any further payment. I used new ball bearings and cups and with my brother-in-law's help on the bits that need 4 hands, we managed the job without totally disconnecting and removing the casquette.

I take Mike's points about the rollers and the ease with which you can modify the components to take them if you (or an acquaintance) has the necessary machines and skills, but I don't and I don't know anyone who does. And as I'm working to a deadline because of the MOT retest, I needed something that would fit straight out of the box.

All done now mates, and I'm grateful to all of you for your advice...................... Tom