Forum

[Dennis C]

Hi Trevor, it seems a long time since we have communicated on here (was going to say spoken but hat seems wrong somehow), the static timing of 0.8mm is a retarded setting and the other is a fully advanced setting, the retarded setting is easier to achieve as you don't need to remove the timing cover but as the advance/retard mechanism begins to were the setting becomes less accurate, the engine runs almost all its time on full advance and a more accurate setting is achieved if this method is used.

[Dennis C]

Must learn to read before posting!!!!!, for hat read that for were read wear. Please can we have an edit facility?.

[trevorch]

Hi Dennis, Thanks for reminding me about the dynamic timing. things you can forget after changing to an EFI. Nothing left to fettle. However met up with the guy who bought my old one yesterday. He is steadily fixing all the things that were not broken, still we all have to start somewhere.

Cheers TrevorCH

[Al]

Would you like o,8mm static or fully advanced dynamic 8.5mm sir? Ummm---I think I'll go for the twittling the backplate and let the engine tell me when it's happy option, thanks. Yes the piece of stick and a felt tip is a good starter, and checking the fully advanced cooresponds etc. But honestly, its much happier telling me where it wants to be set. A bit like--"making love to a beautiful woman" scenario---stop prodding with your screwdriver, use your finger tips. So far so good. Now I'm working on getting more juice into the oven; another "making lo....analogy springs to mind.....?

[John L]

Referring to our host's own advice - see "Technical Notes" :-
Points gap .35 - .40 mm (.014-.016") - 15 thou, in other words.
Static timing 0.8mm for both 350 & 500.
Seems clear to me........

[Dennis C]

Hi John L. also from the same notes.......


"As most of your riding will be done with the timing fully advanced, we suggest that this is also
checked. If the advance/retard unit is worn, then most of the time the engine will be overadvanced.
The advance/retard assembly will give approximately 8.5mm (21/64)” or 32 degrees at
full advance before TDC."......"To check the full advance timing position, mark the top
dead centre tool with the advance setting above the TDC
mark. Turn the engine back, then forwards until the piston
reaches this new mark. Now turn on the ignition and
carefully with your fingers, rotate the points cam
clockwise, against the pressure of the springs. If
everything is correct, you will hear the snap as the points
open exactly as you reach the limit of the travel, and the
ammeter will flick back to the centre. Should you find, due
to wear etc, (see photo on right, this shows a common
place of wear on the rear of the auto advance unit), this
setting is wrong, then reset the ignition timing with the
advanced figures whilst holding the points cam against its
springs. It is better to have the timing correct in the fully
advanced position and put up with a slightly poor tickover.
However if there is a major discrepancy, then it is
time to renew the worn parts."

[Alan R]

Hi AL--- do you remember a singer named BILLY JOEL ?? and this }----There are more questions than answers,.....
Pictures in my mind that will not show,.....
There are more questions than answers,.....
And the more I find out the less I know,.....
Yeah, the more I find out the less I know.
------------------ just seemed appropriate, don't you think ??

[Al]

Yes Alan, I do. Age exposure. What about "I can't get no satisfaction", A certain Mick was very adamant about this. And sometimes these bikes can send us into Purple Haze.

[Alan R]

Yo AL !! Kindred spirit, man. Try this}----------http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTknhO-xj8M ---------------- magic mushrooms or what ??

[Alan R]

------------and this !!}---http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwEQq8fE ... re=related --------------and finally, THIS !!!!!!!! }----http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qCEeg6-a ... d--------- OK, I'll go quietly.