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By John R
#453
Having dismantled the engine of my 89 350as far as i can with the engine in the frame, what is a good sequence for removing the studs? Any advice about supporting the engine before removing it?
By Norm
#12395
John,
Underneath the motor there is a bolt going through the centre stand support bracket. This needs to be removed. Behind that is a bigger bolt which appears to go through the underside of the gearbox. This only needs to be loosened off. I remove the big long bolt through the frame above the gearbox triangle plates. This removes pressure on these plates so that they are easier to remove.I then remove the bolt through the front downtube and put a screwdrive in there just for safety while you think about your next move. I don't put anything under the motor but a block of wood on the right hand side just out from the motor. I stand on the left of the bike then lift up on the gearbox, and at the same time allow the front of the motor to go down and eventually with riggling and jiggling the motor will come free then lower it onto the block of wood
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By Chris
#12521
I recently used a little trolley jack (on wheels) under the engine to lift it and when all bolts are clear it needs to go up and then sideways.
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By Barry N
#12542
Chris - presumably the head will have to come off first for clearance, using the trolley jack method?
I will shortly be removing my Sixty5 engine, and on reading previous posts on this subject, have got myself a small trolley jack and a pair of axle stands in readiness.
Any experiences regarding best methods of engine removal would be most welcome!
By Norm
#12548
Barry,
I have removed and fitted motors with the head on, only advantage with the head off is it is a bit lighter
By Beezabryan
#12552
Not being as young as I was nor as bodily able I tend to reduce as weight as possible when removong engines etc. When I did a full bearing replacement a couple of years back I removed head, barrel, and all the primary drive. Again as did Barry I supported and removed the lump on a trolley jack. To quote a well known "Book of Lies" replacement was the reverse of removal :)
By John R
#12569
I am taking the advice that, since I am going to do a lot of dismantling prior to splitting the cases, I will do everything that I can with the engine in the frame -not just that it makes the engine lighter and easier to remove, but the actual dismantling is easier too.
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By Chris
#12649
Sorry John late response. The head doesn't have to come off to remove the engine using the trolley jack (about £15.00 from Lidl). I removed the lot in 1 go, but as you say it would be lighter with less on it of course.

I was able to do this on my own with wood and soft rags in the right places in case of error. I was pleased to see that the engine wouldn't drop down through the frame whatever, so that was re-assuring(2001 Bullet 500).

My Bullet has been running on the new big end for 3 weeks now and all is well.

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