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[m1ks]

Thanks hugely for the many and varied responses guys, it's essentially what I expected, (everyone doing things slightly differently), i'm ok with the whole chain / forks / general stuff (i used to use Castrol chain wax which was brilliant, then they changed the formula to a stickier one which flung everywhere, I've tried several since and never found one i'm totally happy with but several which are OK, just need a more regular clean up of the wheel rim. I still have a tub of boiling chain wax for non O ring split link chains, good stuff but smelly a bit messy and time consuming.
As for the WTF, that was my smartphone, being smart and auto correcting ATF for me, modern urban dictionarys eh, what fun!

My main ponder here was whether there was a specific reason for not using 20/50 in the primary and gearbox as well as the engine, that way I'd only have to buy one oil, (did I mention i'm Yorkshire born and live in Scotland, doesn't get much tighter than that),

Now I didn't know about the sealed / non sealed bearings so that's handy, thanks, I got a tub of the veedol type stuff about a 1/4 full with the spare bits.

So, the use of 20/50 can encourage clutch slip? (which with 18hp isn't the greatest thing to have).
I have no prob using any of the suggested stuff, just thought I might save some messing and just use one, will certainly look at the gearbox bearings if I have it out so I can use straight oil in there.
Another reason was, if I go on a decent run south, carrying one bottle of oil with a basic toolkit is easier than two and a tub of grease, (though technically you'd top up the box with oil I guess), having adjusted my clutch tonight at the gearbox, (which was too tight), the grease visible through the inspection holes looks just like LM? Have yet to check the levels in both the gearbox and primary, previous owner says he replaced the kickstart return spring not long ago and changed the gearbox grease so we'll see when I get the chance.

Bertie? Can you ask your owner to clarify if he uses standard LM grease and oil mix or the Veedol stuff? Thanks.
Is there a great difference, I must admit to wondering if LM grease would work as well?

Anyhow, thanks so far and keep the methods coming please.

[ed.lazda]

Bullet 350. Engine: 20w50, 2500 miles. Gearbox: EP90 (5-speed), 10,000 miles. Primary: 20w50 or ATF, 2500-5000 miles. Forks: 15w fork oil, 10,000 miles. Chain: Tuturo automatic chain oiler (recommended).

[Jon64]

Hi Alan,

In answer to your question I do ride it to work every day as it's my main transport, and no, I rarely get a nod from Harley riders, unless they recognise the bike and me from where I work.
To be honest, even out on a test run on another Harley, you pass many that won't wave/nod then either! lol..... I always just think, well, it's their loss

Regards, Jon

[ROCKER 59]

Halfords classic 20/50 for the engine, changed at 1500m as well as oil filter. ATF for the primery slightly over filled for electric start, keep it well lubed I say.

[Wallace]

Hi Alan R.
I use comma 20/50 in the engine and the clutch casing too. I was thinking about trying a semi-synthetic but I haven't found a 20/50 - is there such a thing? You being the wise man of all things Bullet will know the answer I'm sure. I need to get some Veedol grease so I'll check the website. At the moment I'm using 20/50 mixed with STP LOL!

[Alan R]

Hello WALLACE ---- Now, now flattery will get you everywhere but I'm only a beginner on these forum malarky's. NORM, LES H, et-al are the lads with the in-depth knowledge. Recently I rode my 2nd Classic 500 from Farnborough, Hants. to Telford, Shrops. via a short stop at my Sisters house in Bradfield just outside Reading, Berks. The oil tank needed a top-up and all she had in the garage was 4ltrs of CASTROL GTX 15/40 Semi-. So in it went and, after the 130 mile ride al was well with about say 1/8" drop on the dipstick reading next morning. However I don't see any advantage in deliberately buying a Semi- or indeed a Fully synthetic if a straight mineral will do the job perfectly adequately AND at a cheaper price ! My local automotive supplies shop is a real old-fashioned grotto of a place and on a visit a while back I found 2 x 5ltr bottles of Comma 20/50 mineral oil at £8.50 each so snapped them up. Otherwise it's either TESCO's finest "cheapskate special" or the equivalent from ASDA etc. My 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing runs on their 10/40 mineral diesel. If you are technically up to it then I would strongly advise the fitting of sealed bearings to your 4-speed box. You can then dispense entirely with that "oil that thinks it's a grease---that thinks it's an oil" stuff and run a straight 20/50 in the G'box as well, with no fear of any leaks. Actually, I would think that your 20/50 plus STP is a good substitute. If you've never handled that "black treacle nightmare" you don't know what you're missing !!! Stay as you are if I were you---. Using 20/50 in the primary is asking a bit from the clutc grip point of view. Most--including myself, seem to settle for ATF in the primary and forks. Be seeing you----

[m1ks]

Sealed bearings seems the way to go to make lube choice easier and oil in the gearbox should be better than slurry anyway, it can get places quicker and lubricate better if it's runny.
I take it it's a gearbox off and complete strip to replace these?
I have a couple of manuals but neither one is too in depth beyone the routine stuff, with an idea of whats involved I can always bookmark it for a later date, maybe over winter and give everything a good clean too, (I tend to lay up the bikes in winter, primarily because of the road salt, it's a pig).
I'd agree on the comment for semi or synth, on older engines it's completely unecessary and costlier to boot, mineral and frequent changes is as good if not better than synth and extending the changing periods.
I run the ZXR750 on Halfords mineral, (well last couple have been part synth but only because my nearest halfords, 85 miles distant, only had 10w40 part synth)
Change the oil every 3000 and filter every 6000 or annually, works just fine and that's a high performance engine, so definitely no qualms about using a basic mineral in the bullet tank.

[Norm]

Gearbox rebuild is done in the frame, primary side needs removing. Not a big job, hardest part is removing all that Veedol grease.

[Norm]

And just to put another bit of wood on the fire I use the same oil in everything, forks, gearbox, primary and the motor. Works ok for me.

[p]

Me too Norm, currently everything has 15/40 diesel engine oil - 'cos I had a drum of it! I find gearbox seeps a bit when filled to level plug, but settles down once slightly below it; I use a bit of wire as a dipstick to keep it there. I recon the extra splash of fluid lubrication makes up for this, and also majority of time is spent in top gear when input and output shafts are locked together, so nothing running under any much prolonged load inside anyway. Well, it works for me......