- Wed May 02, 2012 7:53 am
#12163
"which one makes contact to the crank pin the one with the holes in or the one without the holes."
Terry the fixed one goes in the big-end and floating within that is the white-metal bearing. That would be the "shell" you are thinking off, but the difference is that a shell is fixed, whereas the floating bearing rotates inside the big-end bush and the crankpin rotates inside the bearing too. You end up with the floating bearing rotating and sharing it's wear around and cooling better than a fixed shell (I gather). When it is fitted there should be about 0.002" on the outside face and 0.001" on the inside face. The latter figures are only found on discussion sites and not in a manual I have found yet!
I have replaced 3 big-ends, 2 in a 1942 WDCO and 1 recently in my Bullet 500. It isn't rocket science, BUT you need tools like a press (I have a 2 ton hand one) and a dial guage to measure the crank. You need to be fairly confident with your mechanical skills.
The reason I had to replace the first WDCO big-end was that I didn't change the pressure relief valve in the crank and that (I believe) was the cause of the original failure. The latest is up to 6000 miles and still going strong.
Terry the fixed one goes in the big-end and floating within that is the white-metal bearing. That would be the "shell" you are thinking off, but the difference is that a shell is fixed, whereas the floating bearing rotates inside the big-end bush and the crankpin rotates inside the bearing too. You end up with the floating bearing rotating and sharing it's wear around and cooling better than a fixed shell (I gather). When it is fitted there should be about 0.002" on the outside face and 0.001" on the inside face. The latter figures are only found on discussion sites and not in a manual I have found yet!
I have replaced 3 big-ends, 2 in a 1942 WDCO and 1 recently in my Bullet 500. It isn't rocket science, BUT you need tools like a press (I have a 2 ton hand one) and a dial guage to measure the crank. You need to be fairly confident with your mechanical skills.
The reason I had to replace the first WDCO big-end was that I didn't change the pressure relief valve in the crank and that (I believe) was the cause of the original failure. The latest is up to 6000 miles and still going strong.
