Forum

[Bullet Train]

This afternoon, still no joy having set the float level at no more than 24mm, plenty of fuel flowing, still starts and runs only on full choke and obviously too rich. Lots of popping and soon dies when the choke is shut. Vacumn tube is blanked off ok. All previous checks are ok.


Re: timing. Advanced the timing, fully ant-clockwise on the points plate, and strangely, no severe kickback when starting, in fact no difference to running on choke or off at all. Bob weights on the timing unit are doing there job, but this amount of timing adjustment, or rather lack of it, I'd say are the cause of all this trouble. Am I getting warm before I attempt to pull it all apart. I've read the technical notes on this. I've no puller for the points cam auto advance unit. Is this a problem?   I'm guessing it's running too retarded and any adjustments I've just done are making no difference.


Keeping the faith....just?

[grunda 12]

hi bullet train if the ignition is too retarded ,can you not adjust it by turning the points back plate,i,ve just read all the help & tips youve been given, and in my experience when a bike or any single cylinder petrol engine will only run on choke this as has been mentioned earlier points to the pilot jet being blocked mik carbs have a habit of doing this and remember think simple problems like this usually are good luck paul.

[Norm]

 I mentioned the pilot jet earlier and Grunda seconds it. Almost guarantee that is the problem and only take a couple of minutes to check. I have seen a brand new jet with a piece of brass caught up inside and it would only run with the enricher on

[Barry_Q]

I mention this in passing. It's unlikely, but it's a possibility.


The wire that runs from the condenser to the points on my Lightning is jammed up hard against a piller that holds in the points plate. I keep a regular eye on this wire because of an incident that I had on my old Bantam.  I had a non original replacement condenser on my BSA. Because of the size, I had to locate it close to the edge of the points compartment. One day, it ran like a soggy bad of spanners, but only when the choke was off. When the choke was on, it ran OK, but wouldn't idle. To cut a long story short. The insulation on the consenser wire had chaffed and was arcing to the engine casing. There was a spark, but it wasn't strong enough to ignite the fuel-air mixture at normal (choke off) levels.

[Alan R]

------------spare carb still in the offering. hmm ?????

[Jojje]

Compression o.k.?


Sticking or burnt valve?

[Midge]

I thought BTs bike might be this one on the Bay 330710184661


Very similar problem, if I had transport I would have had a punt on it, reasonable price so far £310

[Bullet Train]

Alas, not my bike on eBay. Not that desperate? Will have another go today. No urgency with me as I've got my trusted 50 year old Raleigh cycle to get me to/from work. Went to a Heritage Transport bash yesterday, on a bus, but it would have been nicer on the Bullet?


 You'll notice, as I did recently when looking for a second bike to run along side the Bullet, an awful lot of unfinshed/abandoned projects on eBay and Gumtree, to name but two on-line sites. Some looked and sounded like really good bikes in a previous life, but others seemd like they've ben left to rot, which is just the way all abandoned projects seem to go. Seems people give up or just dont have the money for full restoration costs, which today, are far higher for parts let alone labour than compared to 15/20 years ago. I grew up on Jap bikes and gave them up in 2002. I had a huge stash of Z1000 bits, gathering dust in the lock-up for over 10 years. This lot went for a paltry £800 on eBay. Would cost four times that amount today to purchase those same bits for a resto job? But there you go. We've all been there.


The other observation I noted, was trying to find a late 70's/early 80's Jap that was neither "abandoned", nor a "minter", as in, still being used regularly. They all seem to be falling into the hands of the dealers for top spec restoration at a top spec price! Failing that, just look at what they charge for some of these wrecks at the autojumbles? Thus far, it appears the prices of Indian Bullets have not gone the way of British or Jap iron. Yet?


Keep the Faith


BT

[Alan R]

'mornin all ! ---------- glad to see that wasn't your machine there matey---you're made of stronger stuff than that I'm sure ??  As it happens I'm after selling my 1980 Honda CB400 Hondamatic or (preferably) straight swap for a ruff'n ready Bullet for use as a second bike. Anyone interested or maybe pass the word around??? Full details available if needed. I love those transport rallys'---was it a classic bus you went on as well ?? That'd be a bonus for you. What's the current situation re }--- your bike's choke / no-choke affair? I've watched that vid. several times now and it certainly has all the appearances of fuel starvation linked to the operation of the choke. ie The only time it will run properly is when the choke is ON----therefore that tells me that when the choke is OFF there is little or no fuel reaching the inlet tract. At those small throttle openings the fuel is being supplied via the primary jet (or not, in this case). As you will have seen that jet and it's associated drillings, are so small that the tiniest bit of grit can cause a problem. Last week my BSA chum brought his Mk1 Concentric round for it's 3rd go in the Ultrasonic bath. This was one of those "later" types where the primary jet is pressed into the body passageway drilling. A thin piece of Aluminium  swarf had been pushed ahead of the jet and partially bloked it. Drilling out and fitting the earlier screw-in type  did the job. I'm not saying this is the case with yours but the symptoms all point in that direction. Just to re-cap------------ this problem started after you gave it a service and wash etc. SO--did you alter the timing then ?? Did you change the points then??  Is there water in the carb ??   NIL DESPERADUM old mate !! 

[Alan R]

 Hello again---------- I've just re-read BarrQ's contribution. Yes, OK----you have a spark but what COLOUR is it ??  A bright blue with a sharp "crack" sound or a dull, red with little or no sound. If it's the latter then change the capacitor (condenser) and try starting with the cover left off.---------remember the moving arm must be insulated from the body or you get a short circuit.----a different plug cap (off a running machine) might help here as well.