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By Alan R
#10439
Hi Dennis C----------- yes, so am I !!! Nearly 60 and no spares available, including the trouser dept.   It would appear we have a new bit of medical terminology }-----------Grundaphobia.  The  Army's tanks have a lining inside--known as "Anti-spall" lining. Stops the results of HESH( High Explosive Squash Head)shells killing the crew by high velocity "Razor blades" --- nice, eh ??           Hello again, Norm -----Strewth mate, wot wiv testing bikes at 3 in the morning, black, sticky Molasses all over your chops, and now exploding fuel tanks--- I bet you're the toast of the neighbourhood ?? Mind you--it's fully in line with the Enfield ethos on motorcycling, Ben Zuddahism, price of chips etc.      M.A.N made diesel engines for U-boats in WW2. Have a look at }--Google---WW1, 1917 diesel engine running ------------no fuel injectors, all done by air-blast.         Chris Tindall --- whereabouts are you mate ?? I have oxy-weld. etc in the workshop, a big hose pipe ( Blush !) and }------ 5 kilo of brazing rods. No charge-- tea and chokkie bikkies supplied. 
By Norm
#10442

 Hi Alan,


    I was waiting to see if anybody picked up on the sticky black molasses trick. It is amazing what it does to the inside of a rusty tank. Who would have thought that animal grade molasses would make the inside of a tank sparkle, and the best thing is it doesn't damage the paint

By grunda 12
#10449
dennis, chris,s bike is a bitsa ,he had a tank manufactured in india last year to english spec so the 60 year on tank sinareo really doesn,t make much difference its not the genuine article so why risk setting yourself on fire just to look like the genuine article?thanks paul ,p.s i,m not having a go at anybody especially chris but this really is down to common sense.
By Alan R
#10450
Hello Norm--- My guess is it's a similar thing to the old "Coin-in-Coke" trick ie a mild acetic acid or the like ?? 
By Dennis C
#10454

Hi again Grunda 12


It appears you have inside knowledge to this bike, I can only pick up the info as posted.


 You obviously know more about this particular tank than I do so I will bow to your greater knowledge, however I have not as yet had a tank which I repaired fail (now I will go and touch some wood).


All the best


Dennis.

By Mark M
#10461

Further to Norm's comments on molasses, here in the UK the product to buy is Tate and Lyle's Black Treacle. I use 2 tins (each tin is 454g or 1lb,) to a 4.5 gallon tank, you don't need to be all that accurate. Dissolve it in hot (boiling) water then pour into the tank, and top up the tank til it's up to the neck. Make sure the petrol tap is off or the hole blocked. Put the cap on and leave it, you'll need to be patient! Depending on how bad the rust is 2-3 weeks ought to do it. If the tank is rusted badly inside the tank may leak as the rust is eaten away so beware the contents dripping out, put the tank over a washing up bowl or similar. When emptied, rinse the tank out with hot water and dry well with say, a hot air gun through the filler. The same process can be used to de-rust other components, say studs, nuts and bolts, spacers or engine plates, just make up the solution into a plastic bucket with a tight lid. The advantage is that this stuff only attacks the rust and leaves the parent metal untouched. The dried off metal surface is ready for paint or plating. You'd be surprised how well an apparently badly rusted, maybe even scrap, part looks after treatment!


REgards, Mark 

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