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[jacobia stig]

Ric! - ' One problem associated with bad gear changing on the 4sp box is because more often than not the setting for the adjustment plate is bang on mid position when it should err towards the downchange. The reason being because its easier to push down on the leaver than pull it up. "

i feel like this is the place im not getting right, i have replaced the figure 8 spring behind the plate as it looked pretty done in and i think it the placement of the foot control ratchet that is causing these headaches. our hosts own guide to my original problem of the kickstart pawl says dont touch the adjuster plate or the gear operator selector assembly... but i had too, to replace a really worn out selector assembly ( the spring was continually sticking which is why in the first place i was having trouble with this all)

so, waiting on these bits to arrive and then i guess its just a matter of rail and error in getting the adjustment plate and gear assembly selector in thier right places / settings.


This is such a classic headache, everything was working so smooth and happily before i took it apart :p hamfisted.

thanks loads for all your replys.

Binery ! - i do defiantly dream of being able to give my bike that one extra gear, the 5 speed of a newer bullet i had a few years ago in india was great, but overall i prefere and went for this older chappy ( 1992 ) by choice. tho i do miss the gearbox :p im not in position at the moment to spend anything at all at the moment otherwise ive got a few things id like to do to this bike. i drem mostly of this idea of doubling it up like a musket 1000cc or the carberry bikes that chap in india is making.

right now id settle for my old plodder back in action.
raises fists to the sunny sky... whyyyyyyyyyy nowwwwww.

waits for postman.

[jacobia stig]

got a little discrepancy to between the exploded diagram of the 4speed gear box (A) and a diagram in the pawl replacement pdf on here. (B)


its a washer that appears in (B) on the foot control rachet components in a photo halfwaydown that doesnt apear in the exploded diagram or parts available here, any ideas?. its shows a washer capping it all off after the rachet selector assembly is all in place, i guess it would sit beteen that and the neutral finder arm through the casing (THE RACHET! which i prolly did install upside down a few times at first thanks vince! when you also say also check gear selector plunger set correctly, do you mean it has to sit horizontal and with the cut out facing into the gearbox mechanisism? i think this being over tightened was causing it all to not select and also has damaged the spring inside, so im waiting a new one and hoping i can find the correct setting ( amount of turns anybody?))

[Gwilly]

You've got it, there is a large washer not shown in diagrams that fits over the square shaft upto the ratchet mechanism.

Its the last thing fitted before fitting the outer casing..

Without it the neutral finder sits back too far when tightened and will bind on the outer case making gear selection difficult..

On some bikes you'll see a scribed arc where the end of the neutral pedal is scratching the alloy case..

About 3 turns in with the selector plunger, tighten lock nut with the screwdriver slot kept horizontal and the box in the false neutral between 3rd and 4th gear.

Saves chewing the chisel end of the plunger on the grove in the bell crank..


A quick tip here, leave the outer case screws loose and tighten the neutral finder first, then make sure the case is fitted centrally and theres free movement of the finder.

Small taps with rubber mallet to alloy, then tighten the outer screws and fit levers...