Forum

[Mickey]

Hi again, I had no problem with both nuts hand tightened first (the shakeproof washers help to stop the shaft turning) then just using the socket either side to tighten up. Remember to put the swing arm in its 'mid swing' position(i.e. half-way through its possible normal travel if the shocks were fitted in place), before finally tightening. That's to stop excessive 'back & forth' twisting of the bushes which might cause them to fail prematurely.
Just realised might not be able to make Tuesdays meeting but will definately be up for Sundays hike & meal!
Mick

[p]

Don't know why these "big" nuts are used; they are far bigger across the flats than standard size for the thread they fit. Clearly some models use them and some don't - so if you butcher yours getting them off then why not replace with washer and standard nylock nuts, which you will already have the right spanner for?

[Bertie the Bullet]

Hi all, just for reference if you wish to remove your swinging arm nuts (the larger variety) a 38mm socket is ever so slightly big but is suitable for the job, as my nuts (no funny comments please) are not nylock I haven't yet decided whether to buy some replacement nylock nuts, use star washers (as Mickey suggested) or drill the ends of the shaft and use split pins, would be interested in your opinions as I dont want to make an incorrect choice....cheers....Just enjoy the ride.

[simon]

There is a big difference between the old Reddich style of swing arm and the later Indian ones in that the Reddich one is sprung into the frame between two spigoted bronze spacers. The whole thing is pulled together with a draw bolt that goes right through and was tighter with two big c spanner righted nuts that were locked with a grub screw. This was necessary in order to remove any lateral float whilst leaving the swing arm free to swing. The later Indian ones are much simpler although rather less elegant and is a simple silent block that is pulled up tight with draw bolt. The big nuts on these are simply for looks as the only adjustment is tight, all the movement in the swing arm being allowed by the silent block bush.

[Gwilly]

I suppose the large nuts could be for asthetic reasons but i cant help thinking that its designed to give the greatest surface contact area, both for strengh and resistance to loosening on such a vital load bearing assembly.

I believe the nut is the same size as the final drive gearbox sprocket nut, and a good tool to acquire is from your local plumbing merchant, ie tube spanner 1.1/2" AF for waste fitting back nuts.

Mickeys note about centering the swing arm (chain stay) before tightening has reminded me regards that fixing jig supplied by mr H, and i wondered does anyone know what the measurment is between hole centres? After all its only a steel strip.

Regards gwilly.

[loco builder bri]

Hi all
The spanner/socket size required to fit the bullets etc with large nuts is 7/8" whitworth - 1" british
Standard.
The Actual AF (Across the flats) size is just under 38mm - 1.5"
The correct torque tightening figure taken from the workshop manual is 3.50Kg-m 300LB-Inch
35Nm
The 1993 350 bullet & 1963 250 Crusader Sports have the large swingarm nut but crusader had the addition of a screw (2ba pan head) screwed into the frame right beside one of the flats on the nuts to prevent
the nuts unscrewing in use. Probably cheaper than buying the nyloc inserted nuts & another opportunity
to some more chromed or stainless bits to your machine.
Its a mod I intend doing to my Bullet but not got round to it yet! Maybe this year?
Regards Bri e