User avatar
By Wheaters
I'm still finding my way around this gearbox.

The 5 speed gearbox parts list doesn't indicate which is the oil filler/level plug. I therefore assume that the oil filler is the access plug for the clutch cable end and the correct level is at the bottom of the case threads. This means that unlike the 4 speed box, the outer case runs "wet".

Is this correct?

Also, any recommendations for oil type? I have a selection of transmission oils on my shelf (calm down, calm down, it's only another oil discussion :lol: ).
By Adrian
Yes it does.

Mauri beat me to the draw, so wot 'e said. The Electra-X manual for the same gearbox says to use 450ml of EP90.

By Super45
Wheaters wrote:
Mon Oct 07, 2019 11:00 pm
The thing I enjoy about the MCC trials is seeing the great variety of vehicles being used, all trying to achieve the same thing on the hills. After a classic bike or a modern trail bike might come an Austin Seven saloon, a supercharged BMW estate, a VW Beetle or a one off
trials special with a modern turbocharged engine.
Totally agree a few of the little suzuki x90's came past me while I was watching strange looking things at the best of times even more so once jacked up with 2 big blokes in them!

the only vehicle I thought was a bit of a cheat was someone in a short wheelbase suzuki vitara, must of been in the anything goes 'O' category but can't imagine it would of had much struggle on the off road sections being 4x4!
User avatar
By Wheaters

The MCC event rules don't allow 4x4 vehicles, or even diff locks or limited slip diffs. You probably saw a Suzuki GV2000, which is a 2WD Australian version of the 4x4 versions sold in UK. A few have been allowed for a few years to compete by exploiting a technicality of the rules. This has been stopped by a new rule and they are not allowed after this year because they tend to do a lot of damage to the surface due to their size which can alienate the locals and private landowners.

There are now a lot of people wanting to trial X-90s and they are to be given their own class. I think they look like a pumped up Mazda MX-5. They are ideal for triallers who like to stay warm and dry! :D
User avatar
By Wheaters
Came across a worrying snag with this 'box. I found it wouldn't change into any gears other than 1st and neutral! :cry:

A lot of fiddling and a farting about later (I was still learning about how this 5 speed is put together), I managed to get the gear cluster out. I could see no wear or damage at all, everything inside was pristine clean. The gears slid nicely on their shafts and the selector forks lookedperfect. Yet every time I reassembled it in the case, the cam plate would not rotate.

With everything apart again (about ten times) I discovered that the pins on the selector forks (they slide in the tracks on the plate) seemed to sit very tightly in certain positions. I pulled everything apart again and inspected the cam plate. It's made of hardened steel and the main surfaces are ground flat. The tracks look like they are stamped out when the plate is manufactured and judging by their surfaces, nothing further is done to them to clean them up before or after the hardening and grinding processes are carried out. The inside faces of the tracks seemed a little rough in places and the edges very slightly burred, from the subsequent grinding process.

I took a fine needle file and some emery cloth to the plate and carefully cleaned up the rough edges (it was hard work, that plate is very hard steel).

I put it all back together one last time and finally found that I could get all 5 gears, as advertised.

I suspect this gearbox might have been removed from a new bike and changed under warranty very soon after it went on the road, because I don't see that it can ever have worked properly. That would explain its pristine condition. :(

Anyway, it works now. My DIY right side conversion is now all fathomed out and mainly sorted.

I need to have the outer case milled out with a 20mm round hole to allow the gear selector rod go through. I've ordered a 14 x 20 x 12mm sintered bronze bush and associated oil seal for the modified shaft and a bearing end cap to seal the original aperture in the rear side of the main casing. I've left enough of the original shaft in place to allow it to be supported at both ends, in both cases - unlike the factory one, which appears to rely only on single sided support.
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