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[JTL]

Happy new year all... hoping to get some help regarding the horn button on the LH switch cluster (part no 144353). First I have to know how the horn button works. Does pushing the button make the horn work by earthing the horn circuit? ... Next thing; my horn button doesn't work. Any tips to fix it? ... regards Jacob

[Leon Novello]

Most horns are grounded (chassis Earth) to the frame/engine, pressing the horn button completes the circuit with the other wire causing the diaphragm to vibrate and make much noise. If there is no noise, most horns have a tuning screw at the rear of the horn, turning the screw to and froe whilst pressing the button will usually get it tuned to make the loudest noise.

[Bullet Whisperer]

Hi Jacob, I have recently [last job before Christmas] fixed a horn problem on a 535 GT. As well as one of the horns needing a tap with a spanner to make it work, the horn button did nothing - it is supposed to earth the horns, which have a live wire going to them, this live shares a fuse with the instrument console by the way. The 'guts' of the horn button seemed to have vanished and for about £40, I was able to buy a replacement switch cluster, which sorted the problem. Regards, Paul.

[JTL]

Hi Leon and Paul... thanks for replies. You have confirmed my thoughts. My horn stopped working some time ago, so I had to test the circuit with a light bulb; no light. When testing the circuit with a multimeter the horn button turned out not to be working. I dismantled the switch cluster. I belive it's possible to fix the button, so I will give it a try, instead of buying a new cluster for the third time. It's crappy from the factory, so maybe I can improve quality and make it work again... regards Jacob

[Leon Novello]

Give us a toot when you fix it. We like to HEAR from you.

[JTL]

Leon, the whole horn thing is a part of a plan to relocate a new horn in a sort of safe place (meaning more dry and less road dirt). So I have to alter the wiring, and to do so I have to understand how it works. Fixing the horn button once and for all is one also a goal in this plan... I let you know when its done... Jacob

[stinkwheel]

For reference, because my bullet seems to eat horns (It's easily on its 4th horn), the easy way to diaghnose the difference between the switch/wiring having failed and a broken horn is to watch the ammeter. If it dips when you press the button, the horn is at fault. I haven't known a horn fail totally, they invariably still draw power even if they aren't making a noise. If the ammeter doesn't move, I'd suspect the button or wiring.



Incidentally, I also find the majority of problems with motorcycle switchgear (missing parts excepted) can be cured by squirting a load of WD40 into it through a straw and working the switch a few times.

[JTL]

That is some handy info Stinkwheel; the good to know stuff. Unfortunately I can't use the ammeter trick, since I have a totally different wiring. My bike runs pure DC with another ignition lock than the Bullet oem set up. I have to use the multimeter in search for faulty circuits... And good eyes. I found out the horn button just missed making contact by a fraction of a mm, so I have put a little solder on the tip of the contact and now everything is fine... Maybe except of the switch to frame contact. My handlebars are painted black. I'm thinkng of wiring the whole switch cluster to the frame with just a small wire. If that's the way to do it?

[JTL]

Hi all... just an update on my horn situation. The horn contact have been fixed by a little bit of solder on top of the button side of the contact and the contact itself has be wire to the frame. The new horn is wired with a relay. and mounted underneath the seat... And here comes the pictures if everything goes well...





this doesn't look right??? maybe it's easier to view the images by just copy pasting regards Jacob

[JTL]

It worked. Hope the pictures can help others to sort their horn contact issues and/or their horn eating Bullets... good luck Jacob