Forum

[Norm]

I have just pulled a Super Meteor motor down and it has about 1mm of end float and has been rubbing on the inside of the drive side case. Does anybody know how I can shim it up to take this movement out. I can't see any way of shimming against the drive side bearing to prevent this.

[Mark M]

What's rubbing? The crank? If so, check position of bearing on T/S end. Crank should protrude only 1/16" beyond bearing race. No shimming possible otherwise.
REgards, Mark

[Norm]

Hi Mark, yes the crank is hitting in a couple of places and the screw in the center of the big end journal has also gouged a track around the outside of the bearing housing. I can't see how the timing side bearing can help in this situation. Only thing I can think of is making a thrust washer to fit over the crank on the taper because there is no square edge to push up against, and get it to come up against the bearing. Lot of work because it is a fit and check, pull apart again till I can get it the correct distance

[Norm]

Hi Mark,
looks like it is missing the crankshaft bearing distance collar

[Mark M]

Screw in the centre of the big end journal? Sorry Norm, I don't know what you mean! By the way, Workshop Manual says end float is set by position of t/s bearing inner race on crank nose. Your description is not clear at all but is the large washer in place behind the t/s outer bearing race? That could cause the problem?
REgards, Mark

[Norm]

Hi Mark on the exploded drawings the crank plug is held by a circlip these appear to be held somehow by a grub screw. I haven't tried pulling that apart because the rods seem ok, it is obviously because the thrust spacer is missing the crank is able to move sideways and hit the case. Timing side spacer is in place and looks fine

[Mark M]

You mean the spacer behind the drive side bearing? That would do it. The Manual assumes all components are actually present and then the position of the t/s bearing would come into play! I've never come across the grub screw thing, I reckon that's a bodge.
REgards, Mark

[Dennis C]

Prior to 1959 the crank had a plug held in with a circlip 1959 on it was a screw in plug.

[Norm]

Hi Dennis and Mark, while we are discussing this what size breather should I weld into the top of the oil tank, is a half inch hole big enough? The ones on the 1A and 2 are about 3/4 inch, but this always causes problems getting the hose out to the rear

[Dennis C]

Hi Norm

Do you really need a breather on the oil tank?, I have a 1959 model which has a breather on the upper left of the crankcase which feeds into the top of the oil tank and a breather through the crankshaft which vents into the primary chaincase with the usual vent on the top of the chaincase.

When I rebuilt the bike five years ago now I put an additional 1/4 inch breather in one of the inlet valve adjustment covers feeding into a catch tank inside the tool box, after many thousand miles since this was done no oil has appeared in the catch tank and the bike does not leak any oil at all.