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[Michael]

Ok, I know this is definitely not the best place to be posting such a request, but I figure with all the knowledge out here then someone will know this.




I have just nought (not yet collected, but will soon) a 1986 VW T25 campervan. It is mostly in good nick, having been well looked after by the previous owner as a rolling restoration. Importantly the body work has been well maintained and repaired. There are, however, a couple of issues which I have committed to deal with; they are DIY jobs, but I know the professional cost too, so am prepared to go there if it gets too much. The issue is this:




The high top roof joint has failed above the sliding door. A repair is possible, but a remove - clean - replace job might be necessary. What is the best bonding agent to fix the fibreglass roof to the main body? I have been told of something called sikaflex 221... Secondly, the fuel tank needs replaced; having removed and replaced fuel tanks on bike, is it exactly the same process but bigger and heavier on a bus (remove line & breather, remove tank, replace new tank, refit line & breather and off you go)? I wonder how many bulleteers also own buses

[Alan R]

Hi guys----------- and hello MICHAEL...welcome aboard me hearty !!......... I was "employed" (nearly said "worked" then..I am v.much aware of the Trades Description Act !!) with the Royal Mail in their HGV workshops as a Senior Vehicle Technician with a full range of van and lorry types, so very similar to your campervan...........Several points to bear in mind}-------------------------------------------------a) It'll be v. dirty, rusty and cramped for space so a visit to your local wash plant that has one of those underbody steam lances is a good idea-------------------------------------------b) 1986 is a long time for nuts and bolts to be "married" so to effect a good "divorce" a few tins of WD40 or similar applied over several days beforehand will help (try just cracking the seal by a 1/4 turn then apply several times)--------- All our vehicles were Diesel powered so use of the "Red & Black Spanner" ( Oxy- Acetylene)was OK also--------------------------------------------c)Some form of lowering and lifting the tank.--------------------------------------d)Drain the fuel completely thus lightening the load, so you'll need a container able to take the volume ( and of a type that is easy to use for re-fuelling as well !! Jerry cans are the thing )-----------------------------------------e) If you can get access to a vehicle hoist that will save you EONS' of bad backs, foul language etc----know what I mean ??---------------------------------------f) Take the opportunity to de-rust and seal all the surrounding chassis and bodywork as you're not planning to go back there again within your lifetime, eh ??---------------------------g) As a matter of course change all flexible hoses and their clamps, a new fuel level sensor with gasket and replace any electrical connectors whilst you're at it............Finally a coat of underbody seal on the tank will help deflect the odd stone etc thrown up......................OK, we didn't do all those things as the vans/lorries were fleet vehicles with the support of a fully equipped Central Motor Transport Workshops ( I could change a Transit fuel tank and it be back on the road within the morning shift (4 hours )......Sorry to bang-on so, just evoked a few happy memories there....As Star Trek says}----------- SPACE, the final frontier......... Get it on a hoist if you can -------------------------- PS, just to keep within the parameters of this thread, how about using a Royal Enfield whilst your campervan is off the road ?? And finally, was yours the campervan in the film Little Miss Sunshine ?? Look at this>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWyH_twcMl0

[Michael]

Hi Alan




Cheers for the tips!! As for the film, the campervan there is a T2 (Bay window), I have bought a T25 (wedge) which is a little more '80s shaped. More angular, and a teeny bit larger. The tank seems like a doable job in my drive, hopefully! Any ideas on the roof? And as for riding a Royal Enfield, of course I will! I'm rarely off my bike, except when I need to fix it.

[Alan R]

Hi MICHAEL---------- have just looked at images on the web------ I see your dilemma now...Maybe if you fabricate a thin-skin aluminium shaped former, flush pop-riveted and painted might be best for strength ??? -------------- and whilst waiting for the paint to dry why not peruse our hosts catalogue ?? ( that's just to keep on-board with Allen H ).. On the larger panel vans with Aluminium bodies and glass-fibre roofs, we used a tubed, flexible sealant that stunk of vinegar !! (Acetic acid)....At the moment I can't recall its' name but it was the dogz roundies and did the job A-OK.!!

[Norm]

Sikaflex is the go as long as you can get it onto a rust free area

[Alan R]

-------------- here you go }---------- www.google.co.uk/shopping/product/92501 ... r.r_qf.&bv ---------------

[Michael]

How did I know Alan R and Norm would come good, even on this curveball? Cheers folks

[Roger the old]

I have used Sikaflex on my camper van for corking the joints its the best. (I have an ugly Fiat Ducatto but it is waterproof). Good luck, choose a dry day or somewher out of the rain!

[Alan R]

as Manuel might have said}-- "Meester Fawlty, what is this DRY DAY you speak of" ???

[Norm]

Hi Michael, I have been cutting out rust in cars since I was about 17 so along the way you pick up a few ideas lol