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By Alan R
#27320
Hello NATHAN---------- for exploded pars diagrams go onto the L/H column of this page------ PARTS BOOKS ONLINE-------- 250 SINGLE CYLINDER ------------ SELECT YOUR CRUSADER----- The two items look like cylinder head valve guides (inlet on the L/H and exhaust on the R/H), don't know about the other photo..
By Mark M
#27326
Yep, valve guides on the left and a cylinder head stud and it's sleeve nut on the right. Oh, and the valve guides look knackered to me!
REgards, Mark
By Nathan
#27346
Ah, that's why I don't recognise them. I didn't do that section of the engine. They're the old ones the mechanic swapped out for me.

Sorry, the other picture, isn't fully complete. It's the same both ends. I think it's something to do with the frame but it's not obvious where it goes.

The exploded diagram on the left seems to be missing the front foot peg set up. I think im getting there though.Trial and error with the bolts I've got knocking about :-/
By Nathan
#27347
Ah ha!
The front peg parts are with the exhaust and chain.
By Mark M
#27348
Nathan, I just expanded your stud picture and I think it's part number 39370 which is the long stud that goes through the rear of the engine and ties it to the frame. It wasn't easy to see from the picture what scale it was!
REgards, Mark
By Nathan
#27350
I think I agree with you. It should all fall into place now.
Cheers for the pointers.

I have some other general questions about the bike. I feel bad asking, like i'm just tapping people for info that I could potentially get elsewhere, I've just not done this before.

My rear shocks were being stored in a box that filled up with water when the roof leaked. An amount of rust was apparent but after cleaning up the covers, you'd never know. They haven't been used for around 5 years now. Should I be taking them apart to review?

How can I test whether the front forks need an overhaul? Is it just a case of new springs and oil?

Thanks. N
By Mark M
#27351
Nathan, you must dismantle the shocks to check that the damper rod is clean and free from rust. Do not attempt to use them before you do this or any rust formed on the rod will wreck the oil seals.You can also check the seals and clean and re-grease the springs while you're at it, they will probably be full of dust and muck despite the covers! Fork springs won't need replacing, they hardly ever wear out on the 250s. Check forks by putting bike on centrestand and trying to rock the slider away from the stanchion, there should be no play. On these bikes there are no oil seals or bushes so the fit of stanchion to slider is crucial. Use ATF to refill, don't bother with fork oil. You need to buy a Manual, not expensive from our Hosts, these engines are a more fiddly than the usual Britbike of the era! Did you know there is a special Yahoo Group for Crusaders? find us at http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Cru ... cal_group/ where there is lots of info!
REgards,Mark
By Nathan
#27352
That's fantastic.

No I didn't know there was a group. I'll check it out. Ta.

The engine should be sound now. It's just had a full rebuild due to the a knackered big end. Cam shaft was blocked solid.

N

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