Forum

[dennis t c]

Paul, Frank, Gwilly hitchcocks said the order of the springs makes no difference, first the strong springs followed by the others. I've been riding today and trying trying various settings in the gear box and at the lever. Still got the neutral going down into second, I think the clutch drags easily, the only thing left to try is an oil change as you all said before. Sorry if I'm going on about this but I have to have things right and my knowledge is limited. Sometimes I can't get the green ignition light on, especially when hot, but the engine will start if I hold the clutch lever when I press the ignition switch........does tell you anything???? Thanks for your help.....Dennis

[sofiaspin]

If you order up the full set, as I did, and as I explained in my reply to your initial post, then it comes with a full set of springs. And the instructions make it clear to alternate them. And use ATF.

[Frank]

There is a switch at the clutch lever which prevents the starter from operating if it is in gear and the clutch is not operated. It sounds as if it is stuck in a false neutral hence no light, but it can be started if the clutch is pulled in. That bit is normal.

[sofiaspin]

Probably best to go back to the beginning. Assuming you have inserted new clutch plates and alternated the springs, then put in ATF fluid. Now, unlock lock nut on right hand side of gearbox. Ensure clutch cable is free at lever end - ie loosen it off at the knurl. Now screw in pushrod screw to the point there is resistance, then ease off a quarter turn. One mans resistance is another mans light touch. I make sure there is proper resistance to the turn on the pushrod nut. Now tighten up clutch lever knurl to reduce most of (any) free play. There is a lot of information on this process on this website, and elsewhere. I suggest you have a dig around and read up a bit. Most shifting issues are down to clutch adjustment, or not, but the manner in which you engage gear is important. It must be an assured lift of the gear lever. I get occasional 2nd gear neutrals too, but not if I make for a slower, assured, firm engagement. IT is an Albion gearbox, not a modern Triumph box. Much of this lies within one's own head.

[Frank]

Sofiaspin, This is a 5 speed Electra X box but what you said is still applicable except the pushrod adjuster should not be backed off once resistance is felt. This ensures maximum lift on the ball and ramp actuating arm.

[Leon Novello]

There seems to be a lot of clutch problems on here lately; so I thought it was time to post this again.
http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/clutches.htm

[Norm]

Leon,
As long as there are Enfields there will be clutch problems. I've found the best way to solve clutch problems is not to ride them at all.I can leave them in the shed for months and never have to adjust the clutch

[scotty]

hi my clutch runs ok found a problem thats been around for ages and on various makes , clutch centre splines get notched from clutch plates, a few minutes with a smooth file works wonders can even do this without taking centre off then a quick spray clean .suck it and see.

[Frank]

Dennis. The reason for alternating the springs around the clutch between heavy and light is quite simple. If all the springs were heavy on one side and light on the other then more pressure will be applied on one side. There will be a danger that this will cause the pressure plate to lift unevenly and cause the clutch to drag. If you look at the clutch when the lever is pulled then you will see that it doesn't lift far, so there is little room for error. Once the clutch is assembled and adjusted correctly then I would do the test as I described in a previous thread to check if drag is in fact an issue. The choice of oils is up to you. I get on better with 15/40 but more people swear by ATF. Whichever it will do no harm. The 5 speed gearbox is not that bad, not up to Japanese standards perhaps, and it takes a bit of getting used to. You have to take your time a bit with gear changes, be positive, lift your foot clear of the pedal and let the pedal return to position between them.I should also change the gearbox oil as a matter of course and put in either EP90, if you can get it, or EP 80W/90 gear oil which is more widely available. Also check and adjust if necessary the rear chain. Hopefully all will then be sorted.

[grunda 12]

must agree with frank i find that 15/40 works best in the electra primary case and everything else he said in his last post ,atb paul good luck dennis