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[PeteF]

My C5 has less than 3k dry miles on it but at the end of last season I had trouble with the front brake sticking on a couple of times. Over winter storage the problem has got worse so I thought I would sort it. Yes, I know it’s in warranty but I wouldn’t trust my dealer with a push bike.
First of all, they aren’t really Brembo. They are branded Bybre and are supposedly made by Brembo. Directly or under license I know not.
Second, seal kits don’t seem to be available (certainly Hitchcocks don’t list them) so I was going to have to be careful with the seals.
Upon stripping the calliper I found that the pistons were indeed very sticky in the bores. I pumped them out as far as I could and then pulled them out with some difficulty and teased the seals out. Straight away I could see corrosion in the seal groves. I popped the calliper in the ultrasonic for 20 minutes and was amazed at the amount of crap that came out. Careful reassembly of the seals and pistons with appropriate grease and I now have a brake that works.
Not really good enough Royal Enfield, I shouldn’t have needed to do this.
By the way, don’t let anyone tell you can’t bleed ABS, you can but a vacuum helps.

[stinkwheel]

It's not a uniquely enfield problem. Heavily corroding brake callipers have been standard fitment to most Suzukis for years. Wasn't unusual for SV650 owners to have to saw the pins in half and split the calliper on their first pad replacement.

[Mann]

Interesting post PeteF. I am looking at doing this as well, i changed pads on my C5 2018 with 4500 miles on it. Since changing the pads the front brake now sticks intermittently and the brake disc smokes when it sticks; i will do a strip down but am nervous about the ABS bleed. Did you bleed it entirely?

[PeteF]

I unfastened the calliper from the forks, disengaged the pipe from the clips so that the calliper would lie on top of the tank (suitably covered with old towels) Only then did I undo the hydraulic hose and kept the end above the level of the master cylinder so the system would stay full. When the calliper was clean and reassembled I reattached it to the hose but left it on the tank with a scrap of 6mm mdf between the pads. I bled it in that position so the calliper was the highest point in the system so I only had to bleed the calliper really. Well, that was the plan, but I got distracted and sucked air in at the reservoir
If it had gone to plan it would have been very quick.
I then had to bleed the whole thing of course after a dash to Halfords for more fluid.
The system bled OK but one of those cheap vacuum bleed kits helps.
Once bled, the calliper slipped on to the 5mm rotor and a couple of pumps had it working fine.
If you've not bled brakes before there are lots of Youtube videos.

[PeteF]

CORRECTION
Mr H. DOES do a seal kit.
Part No. Front brake calliper repair kit 594714 - £18.00
Rear brake calliper repair kit – 594696 - £13.23
Sorry Mr H.

[windmill john]

It's not a uniquely enfield problem. Heavily corroding brake callipers have been standard fitment to most Suzukis for years. Wasn't unusual for SV650 owners to have to saw the pins in half and split the calliper on their first pad replacement.

On my old Bandit, I dremelled about a cm of pin from the middle.
I then, crouched by the bike, drilled from the outside of the caliper a 6mm hole to the back of the corroded in pin; I doesn’t go near the fluid areas.
I then was able to drift out the bit of pin.
Once that was out, the same drift went right through the hole to push out the other bit of pin. Brake caliper pin punch sets are so useful for many jobs.
Once done I just filled in the hole in the caliper for neatness.

[Mann]

Thanks for the detail PeteF and the tip about having the caliper above the level of the reservoir, i have bled brakes on bikes and cars but nothing with ABS. I have a one-way valve bleeder so will bleed my front brake after looking at the caliper and piston. I was worried as i have read about the ABS needing a main dealer reset after being bled.

[PeteF]

Thanks for the detail PeteF and the tip about having the caliper above the level of the reservoir, i have bled brakes on bikes and cars but nothing with ABS. I have a one-way valve bleeder so will bleed my front brake after looking at the caliper and piston. I was worried as i have read about the ABS needing a main dealer reset after being bled.

All I can say is mine didn't need it. ABS light going out as it should. The chances of my ABS ever being activated are very low.

[Mann]

How did you get your pistons out PeteF, one of mine advances to about 10mm but will not come out, and the other remains at about 1-2mm. Sorry been trying to post a pic but cant get it to upload.

https://ibb.co/6RKzrnv

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[windmill john]

Looking at your picture, you can put a spanner across the flats to stop them shooting out. Put a bit of wood in front of the one that is furthest out or else you really will struggle getting the other out.

Then you can use a foot pump on the bleed hole to pump them out, or a compressor if you have access. A cheap foot pump does work, I’ve done it before; compressor is easier.
When they go, it will scare the pants off you, they go with a very loud crack. But as I said, stop the furthest out one from moving initially.

When doing this, lay a cloth across, you don’t want brake fluid shooting out.