Forum

[pilot]

Oops, thats for barrel removal, apologies.
John.

[Dean]

Pilot - took the rocker covers and pushrods out - took the 4 sleeve nuts off, took the two nuts (one infront of the plug and the other in front of the decompressor) the only nut I see between the pushrod channels is below the head, where the cylinder attaches to the case. This is a 350 if that matters
Thanks, Dean

[pilot]

Hi Dean,
Have you removed the head steady at rear of head? Sorry just stating the obvious.
John.

[Dean]

Trying to achieve head removal without damage to the head or cylinder. Appears the four studs need to come out, but how? Tried Mark's suggestion to no avail and PeteF seems to believe that is my issue. Don't see how I can get at the studs, as they are recessed in the channels in the head. Any ideas on stud removal? Still considering putting "metal weld" on the threads of the sleeve nuts, turnng them down on the studs, letting it cure and seeing if the bond will allow for stud removal. Does that make any sense?
Thanks for your interest, Dean

[Dean]

John - seems to be a bit of a delay with postings crossing the pond. Yep, took the stabilizer off.

[Alan R]

If it helps any here is a photo of my classic 500 barrell being lifted off.------------------------

[Alan R]

Damm !!! SORRY GUYS, I used the wrong setting again when uploading......this was just to show DEAN how high up the studs the barrel goes before it comes off.... Just to back-track, have you managed to lift the head away from the barrel at all ??------------- the quicker we get onto page 3 the better !!

[Norm]

Dean, just to do a double check before you do damage, have you removed the nut from the stud directly above the tappet door, bust that and removing the head is the least of your preoblems. You can try some super strength Loctite on the threads/nuts and see how that goes. The problem all stems back to cheap Indian washers used under the nuts. Once you get the head off punch the washers out from the underside and bin them

[Mark M]

Dean,the locked nuts method really should work. Try an additional locknut clamping the bolt more securely to the sleeve nut for additional grip. If I haven't mentioned this already, try loosening the crankcase through studs at the top of the engine, these can (not always,) have the effect of clamping the bottom of the barrel into the cases thereby preventing the barrel from releasing it's grip on the studs, the studs sometimes being tight against the barrel. I don't think the group here has ever come across such a difficult case!
REgards, Mark

[p]

Dean, you said that the washers had come out, so it seems as though the alloy of the head itself has "squashed" into the stud threads. As this is a soft material I'm thinking of a piece of thin walled tube that is a siding fit over studs with some serrations ground on it's end to sort of mill away a bit of the damaged area?? Also wondering if it is possible to suspend some of the bike's weight from cylinder head then use some kind of impact device on end of studs.......
hey, let us know when it comes off..... we're running out of ideas!!