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#95601
jawa-enfield wrote:Dear Folks
The alloy cap was indeed 180 degrees wrong, which can possibly give trouble in upshifting. This was not the case but mounted it the correct way anyway. (because of previous problems with the gearbox, such as hole for the bronze bush was not in line) an expert in these gearboxes offered to mount it together and adjust it. . i assumed/didn't notice the alloy cap)

I am really 'stuck in mind' that is has worked with these parts.. or not? And it should do so again?

From 3 to 2 was not possible and turning the mechanism (manuals say clockwise, but it seems - if it should work- the other way because of the movement for UPshifting gets bigger this way) has really not a mm. influence on the distance the shifting bell moves... so maybe smething here is at stake but.. really complicated is the system not?

I ordered new parts for the mechanism and new detent plunger and took a file and worked on the stop plate to get more movement downshifting.

Yes this also influences the other downshifts which are okay now but i guess the detent plunger has to solve that.

Filed a few mm's away and did a test drive, first run with the nbew rebuilt engine over 10 km's
Detent plunger is a little thight but shifting went okay!

I will look what the new parts will do when they arrive.

Now time for the next problems (oil leakage, and electrea-blues will come along with the stdty. rectifier/regulator?)


Through the hole of the plunger you can check how far the bell moves and ofcourse you can feel at the rear wheel if it takes or not.
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jawa-enfield wrote:
Mon Mar 01, 2021 12:48 pm
Thanks all for reply.
Someone asked me if the primary chain is not too thight.. i tensioned it with a little play as in the manual.. should i try slackening it?
Here's a pic of the ratched.. it is right this way isn't it?

Both springs are in working order and the mechanism has plenty (..) play to rotate freely.

Indeed i also had with the diesel, when mouned the gearshift pedal a notch too hight, touching the neutral lever. This is now not the case with this bike.

Can a too thight detent plunger (which by thge way, can rotate in its case, the notch/dent is not so good..)be at fault? Then it should keep into gear more and not less?
Hi,
I will want to know why the alloy cap was indeed 180 degree wrong?
I would really like to know
#95615
Good question, i did function with these mechanism parts, but after new bearings, layshaft, fork and sprockets not any more.
I had to file down the spots at the stop plate to give the shifting back more leverage, and despite the notches of the other gears (or this one) now don't come exacly in the middle of the detent plunger hole, it works now.

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