- Mon Apr 01, 2019 11:48 am
#82017
You're in luck, Cov Lad, for a Bullet of this vintage you'll need metric AND whitworth spanners/sockets, AF not quite so useful. The gearbox is metric, the engine is mostly metric, though the studs holding the gearbox onto the back of the engine are still 3/8" cycle thread, and there is still plenty of cycle thread stuff around the frame. Depending on what sizes of hex bar stock Chennai had lying around anything with a cycle thread OUGHT to take a whitworth spanner. A long-series 12mm socket will be also needed if you need to get the head off for whatever reason.
Ref your starting issues, I simply removed the sidestand switch and its wiring which plugs into the TCI box on mine, though after this time the previous owner(s) might already have done that. Follow Norm's directions and see what's left.
I also remember the intermittent neutral light indicator too, there can be more than one cause of this. If it only comes on when you move the handlebars that is most likely the ignition switch in need of attention (of the wheelie bin kind) as there's an intermittent contact in there. Pulling on the wiring into the switch makes contact, but it can go off again very quickly.
The starter wiring is such that, according to the diagram on page 05-11 of the workshop manual, you either need the neutral switch on the gearbox to be on, ie with the bike in neutral, or else you need to activate the clutch switch by pulling in the clutch lever for the starter circuit to work. The neutral indicator switch on mine would also occasionally(ish) tick in the open (off) position (this was before I needed a replacement ignition switch!), meaning I had to start with the clutch lever in if I was using the E/S.
As has been stated here often, the E/S really DOES need a good healthy battery (agm type probably best).
A.
Ref your starting issues, I simply removed the sidestand switch and its wiring which plugs into the TCI box on mine, though after this time the previous owner(s) might already have done that. Follow Norm's directions and see what's left.
I also remember the intermittent neutral light indicator too, there can be more than one cause of this. If it only comes on when you move the handlebars that is most likely the ignition switch in need of attention (of the wheelie bin kind) as there's an intermittent contact in there. Pulling on the wiring into the switch makes contact, but it can go off again very quickly.
The starter wiring is such that, according to the diagram on page 05-11 of the workshop manual, you either need the neutral switch on the gearbox to be on, ie with the bike in neutral, or else you need to activate the clutch switch by pulling in the clutch lever for the starter circuit to work. The neutral indicator switch on mine would also occasionally(ish) tick in the open (off) position (this was before I needed a replacement ignition switch!), meaning I had to start with the clutch lever in if I was using the E/S.
As has been stated here often, the E/S really DOES need a good healthy battery (agm type probably best).
A.
