Forum

[NOBBY]

Thank you all for the excellent advice.I knew I could rely on this forum.

[Creaky45]

Hey Nobby, Am I thick or what? You are still using a puller and what do those arrows mean and please describe fully what you mean and exactly what to do for d???heads like me. As I see it the problem is not how to stop the pinion from turning but how to free it from the taper.

[Creaky45]

Sorry Nobby. That was meant for Mauri

[stinkwheel]

Creaky, I think he was referring to the second image I posted, showing the distributor drive gear removed which was actually originally taken to show me removing the timing pinnion nut. In it, I have locked the cam gears using a piece of folded denim cloth jammed in their teeth in order to undo the nut (reverse threaded) without the engine turning.



I think he's saying I could have removed the top idler gear and engaged it against both the bottom one and the inlet cam to prevent rotation in the same way. The downside of that to my mind is I would need one hand to hold the gear in place and one hand to turn the nut, that nut is pretty tight so I'd then need my third hand to hold the engine still on the bench.



In fairness, I've used folded denim to lock various gearin gassemblies for many years and have never damaged any of them in doing so. Everything from geared primary drives on big jap bikes to camchains, clutch baskets and final drive chains to remove sprocket nuts.

[Alan R]

Hi Guys----------a Brass or Copper taper wedge ( like the cheese shape ) will also do the trick..........Last time I used the folded denim idea I was wearing it at the time !!...LoL !!!

[stinkwheel]

Better than a fingertip though!

[NOBBY]

Well I have spent all week trying to remove the distributor drive gear with no luck.I have tried a two legged puller and heated the gear but the gear remains stuck fast. Have now purchased the correct puller from Hitchcocks as recommended by this forum but this has also failed to shift the gear.It looks like I may have to sacrifice the gear and shaft and attack it with a grinder unless anyone has any more ideas.

[Alan R]

Hi NOBBY---------woa-there matey ...grind ye not the wheel ......Try this}--Replace the puller making sure you have a protective cap over the end of the threaded shaft....rotate the puller mainshaft untill max. effort is applied...........use that heat again ( the taper in the gearwheel might have Loctite on it !! )...then use a VERY HEAVY COPPER HAMMER to apply a single, sharp blow onto the extractor mainshaft hex. head, applied squarely..........The idea is to "Jump" the loading and make the taper give way.....

H & S WARNING !!.............This is an extreme measure and not for the faint-hearted.....If successful the gearwheel and puller may well leap out at you, so do take care........I've had to do this on a few occasions and as an Indentured Mechanical Engineer of some 40 years standing it goes against the grain I can assure you, BUT}---- it worked for me on those rare moments when all else had failed............Final question for you}------Are you absolutely sure there is nothing else that needs to be undone, or is in the way etc, etc ????.....Good luck and photos please !!

[ric]

Before you apply impact force to the drive shaft ensure the alloy distributor horn (part of the crankcase) is well supported from behind.

This means placing the bike up against a brick wall and putting a decent piece of timber between the wall and the horn to avoid the amount of impact force you will probably require to remove the gear wheel from causing severe damage to the alloy.

[papasmurf]

Nobby heat the gear, with the puller tensioned, and tap the tensioning nut on the puller with a hammer with everything hot. (I mean tap not a full blooded wack.)
(I know this is counter intuitive.)