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[papasmurf]

In my experience when bikes have some age on them just changing the fluid every couple of years is not enough.
The calipers need dismantling and cleaning. The amount of sludge that builds up is scary and can make one wonder how the brakes worked at all.

[jefrs]

The Gunson Eezibleed kit has all the bit's and bobs you need, apart from the pressure feed system which ain't going to work. But you get all the tubes and nipple connection rubbers. Lacking is the jamjar to dump fuid into, tall and narrow with a metal cap seems to work best. The brake service kit for the mountain bike disc included the syringe filler



Brake fluid does absorb water, hygroscopic it is, real greedy for the stuff. So a good idea to discard every so often. Gunge you might flush out or have to strip the pistons and wash with brake cleaner spray, and then rinse that off thoroughly with fresh brake fluid. If I have to strip down the cylinders then I tend to stop buggering about and renew all the seals anyway. Sometimes it is easier and cheaper just to replace the entire part.

[jefrs]

Scotty - it is correct to use silicone brake grease on the piston seals, but just a smear, they should come with a tubelet of special grease. Meths contains water, bad, make certain it is all gone. Cooking meths contains anything up to 10% water to make it burn better. IMS contains less but meths is another hygroscopic. I wondered about fitting the bleed at the bottom but apparently it is so bubbles can rise up the hose to the master, practically self-bleeding.



FWIW the Volvo 245 had something like 14 bleed points to be done in strict sequence with all the wheels off and the car on a lift.