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[Haggis]

Dyno run after fitting an amal carb kit gave around 4 more wbhp.
So I can only guess that the ecu has its own advance curve.
Probably loosing the midrange dynamic advance that you would get say, on a light throttle, as there is no tps or map sensors.

[Roobarb]

When I carbed my EFI I was considering a way to remove the ECU to aid reliability and to reduce the cost of failed parts. I wondered if a TCI from a Bullet could be triggered using the original CPS ...supposing the TCI having a similar? curve to the EFI but I guess the fact that you've machined components rather points to that not being the case.
I don't like the idea of the injector firing to keep the EFI happy. I measured the injector coil at 10.3 ohms so I figure a 20 watt resistor should give the ECU what it's looking for, we'll see. This is very interesting as for me the object is to have a bike that is as far as possible user simple and robust, thanks for posting your progress.

[Rattlebattle]

I doubt it runs retarded - top end is better than with EFI. No MOT failure yet, it passed again this week. It doesn’t apply to bikes yet anyway - Google MOT testers handbook for motorcycles. I am mindful of potential for not allowing modifications to ignition or fuelling etc in future, the way things are going with noise and pollution. The kit conversion is easily reversible.
That said it’s interesting what you are doing and I’m sure you’ll end up sorting it out.

[Cranky]

Hope this is not getting boring but today I tried every capacitor I had on the trigger earth wire. The results were amazing.

As said I had removed the primary side casing and cut a TDC on the crank gear and although i was spat at with engine oil I was able to see a good reading. Different capacitors moved timing from a few ATDC to 20 degrees BFTC. I settled on a o.1 microfarad capacitor the size of a grain of rice. It ran very well at 18 degrees and I needed to slow it down. It starts as easy as can be without kick backs.

Im not sure where I am at the moment but it seems to pull well with a few misfires but after been in the garage for a week messing about I think she needs a blast down the road.

Tomorrow Im having a day off -- not because of responsibilities towards the sabath but Im fed up with it. I shall load it onto the pick up with the chain hoist and On Monday take it to Rayong Transport office to change the name of ownership, yes it is a pain in the butt to take a vehicle to the province it is registered in. Rayong is not too far 57 KM. They need to see the frame numbers and engine numbers. It should not need a full mot inspection as it in not 3 years old yet.

How would you like to take a vehicle to Cornwall to change name of ownership when you lived in Glasgow.

I have not yet done the CBX 750 P that I bought about 5 months ago. Thats in Nontaburi North of Bangkok. I need to get on with that as well.

[Haggis]

Don't even need to get off the sofa to change ownership as you can do it all online now.

[Cranky]

It will come here one day when they realize the reason for a big number on the back of a vehicle is to trace the owner.

[Cranky]

I did'nt do anything today, well not till I got back from Church. It came to me as I was kneeling down to Onward Christian soldiers that I might have a resistor plug.

As soon as I got home I took a look and yes it was a Bosch r6. The r6 is in such tiny little letters like they don't want you to see it.

I measured the stock RE cap at about 2.5 OHMS and the plug was about 5.8 cricky,--- I thought no wonder I am getting a little misfire at all rev ranges .

Rule of thumb is don't have both resistors. The resistor thingy is not only just to save your neighbors Tv while he is watching the Simpsons but more importantly your ECU that is controlling your electric stuff.

[Adrian]

Wandering attention, eh? Thought it was just me.

My Not A Fury has a BT-H electronic (CDI) magneto, the instructions with it say NOT to use a suppressor plug cap. The reg/rectifier I bought for the bike has instructions which say that you MUST use a suppressor plug cap so that interference from the ignition doesn't kill it (same as not frying the ECU, only it's a little cheaper to replace if you do).

Oh great.

Compromised with a resistor plug and non-suppressed plug cap, all well so far, bike still starts, the reg is still regging and the rectifier still rectifying .

A.

[Haggis]

Efi have 5k ohms resistance plugs and caps as standard.
Thats 5k ohms for the cap and 5k ohms in the spark plug.
Older magneto style ignition won't manage that amount of resistance but is recommended for you modern efi with ecu controlled coil ignition.
Your bosch plug is probably the cause. Ngk BPR6ES will fix it.

[Cranky]

If it has an 'R' in the number it is a resistor plug. Im not using an ECU any more. Im using a TCI. Im going to use a non resistor cap and plug,---lets get some crackling TV's.

Im popping out this morning for a BP5ES,---a little hotter.