- Tue Feb 25, 2020 2:23 pm
#88036
Whilst I’ve no experience of Booster Plug on a Euro IV bike I have tried two on other (Euro III) bikes. In my experience all they seem to do is richen the mixture throughout the range. In doing this the flat spot off idle (ie where the ECU transitions from open loop to closed loop, the usual reason for trying one) is improved but overall in my view it’s not a proper resolution of the issue. All it really seems to do is to replace the input from the temperature sensor with its own input value, which is affected by where you place the supplied sensor - it should be in the airstream.
It seems to me to be a very expensive way of achieving what can be done just as well by disconnecting the O2 sensor and plugging a cheap resistor into the socket. I don’t know about Euro IV ECUs but it works ok on my Euro III C5, fooling the ECU into accepting that there is a live input from the O2 sensor and hence not showing a MIL light. (It wouldn’t anyway on my C5 now because I put a carb on it three years ago and disconnected the MIL light as it no longer serves any useful purpose ).
I do wonder whether in fact all Booster Plugs are the same anyway, apart from perhaps the value of a resistor. I doubt that they really are bike- specific to any other degree, but I could be wrong. I still have one kicking around from when I tried it on my Triumph Thruxton 865. It didn’t do much for that and certainly was nowhere near as beneficial as uploading the right map for the changes to inlet and exhaust I have made. Really a decent Euro IV ECU these days should fuel accurately and self-trim for such changes. Certainly my Honda does.