By Gazbo
Hi all.
I've been experiencing issues recently. Bike starts from cold, and revs etc just fine. After about 3/4 mile of calm running however, IE as the engine begins to warm up, She starts to miss, cough, and won't rev. This progressively worsens, until she won't start at all. Couldn't find any trace of air leaks etc. After weeks of diagnosing, and testing, (I Did find a duff TPS, completely losing it's reading at midrange throttle settings) she now has a complete new inlet manifold set fitted,from cylinder head, right through to the airbox,complete with new TPS, MAP and injector.
Problem remains completely unchanged from before !
Pump has been out, was thoroughly cleaned, and replaced. That has tested out fine, flows well. holds 43psi for over half an hour static test, and is feeding healthy,like new, so is believed good.
Oil temp sensor reads fine.
I'm now thinking O2 sensor faulty.
Tried this morning- as an experiment, to replicate the offending conditions,by heating just the o2 sensor and that area of exhaust, with a hair drier, until too hot to touch, then starting the otherwise cold engine. This seems to have brought the problem - back to happening at the initial startup from cold.(Normally she starts well from cold, and the problem normally arises later in the warming up cycle). So I'm thinking - get an o2 eliminator kit.
Before I part with my swiftly diminishing redundancy money - Can anyone confirm -
does my 2013 model have the same o2 sensor setup as the later (2014-2017) models ? I can only find eliminator plug kits listed as suitable for 2014 - 2017 models!
They do look the same type of plug as my 2013, but...
eliminator bits. JPG
I really don't want to wind up 'er - indoors, buying something else - if it won't fit or function.
Here's hoping for a "Yes - it will fit and work !"
PS: Bike is standard, save for a Motad silencer - which has worked fine for 12 months.
eliminator bits.JPG
By Daiwiskers
Not sure if this will work but can you just disconnect the plug from the sensor and try that
Hope this helps Dai
By Daiwiskers
Too late to edit

It looks like the eliminator kit is just a blanking plug for the exhaust and a blanking plug for the electrics

Disconnecting the electric connection should have the same effect as fitting the kit as far as I can see
Cheers Dai
User avatar
By Boxerman
It isn't a blanking plug for the electrics, it is either a diode and a resistor or two resistors.
I have one for my 2009 EFI. If you just unplug the O2 sensor you will get a fault code, but not if you fit the eliminator plug.

Various people said that the bike would run better without the O2 sensor, but it didn't so I plugged it back in again.
It ran OK without the O2 sensor, but not better. If my O2 sensor went faulty, I would replace the eliminator.

By Gazbo
Thanks guys.
Yes- the eliminator plug does contain some electronics (resistors etc) to fool the computer into thinking the o2 is working, and also to stop the engine management light warning of an o2 sensor disconnect.
The issue I have is not with that, but it's being able to get a suitable one for my 2013 GT, as these are ALL listed as suitable for 2014 to 2017 models. All I wanted to know was - will a 2014 suitable eliminator plug work fine with a 2013 bike, ie - are they the same? (Im hoping they will be).
User avatar
By Boxerman
Just been digging through my purchase history.
The one I have says suitable for 2009 to 2017 models so it looks like they are all the same in that range of years.

By Daiwiskers
Sorry about that the bike is far newer than anything I have worked on
I'm surprised how up to date the later Enfield's are
Good luck with it
Cheers Dai
By Rattlebattle
I fitted a kit to my C5 years ago. The electrical fitting has a resistor in it. All it does is send a fixed value to the ecu so that it doesn’t detect a fault. I fitted mine to stop off idle stuttering resulting from the resistance value causing too lean fuelling. AFAIK the resistance in the elimination kits are the same, so it should work. If it does you’ll then know that your 02 sensor either needs a good clean or is defective (or you could leave the kit in like I did - but then I’ve since replaced my EFI with a carb, so the resistor is now redundant anyway). Good luck.
By Gazbo
Thanks for all the replies Guys.
I'm going to give it a try then.
Fingers crossed that really is the issue, as I'm running out of ideas for it being anything else.
I have always suffered the obligatory wobbly tick-over and accompanying dying, (usually as the lights turn green !)
Maybe this might sort that niggle out too.
Thanks again.
By Aethelric
It's reading problems like this that put me off buying a recent bike with so much electronics to go wrong.
Or maybe I'm just a dinosaur.

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