User avatar
By stinkwheel
What is unsafe about a safety mileage tyre? In the context of this thread, a 6-ply crossply is much less likely to get a puncture, they are super-tough tyres, hence why they fit them to sidecars.

In the context of grip and handling, both exceed the capabilities of a standard RE bullet. The mainstand will touch down a long time before you run out of grip.

The groove-cut speedmasters many fit are not the same as the old speedmasters except in appearance, they are a modern compound. The tread pattern is irrelevant because an RE can't go fast enough to aquaplane
By weedsy
Don't know whether "slime" as used here is just a generic term for all this type of product - I have used "Goop" as a falling-off preventative - which it does, by retaining the air in the tyre in the case of a puncture (if it's a blowout, kiss your arse goodbye, as we used to say). Works tubed or tubeless, seems fitter-friendly.
You will need to check tyres regularly for external signs of Goop, as you wouldn't want to ride on a punctured tyre any longer than necessary; a better temporary repair would be a plug. Don't ask me about any carcase damage or its aftermath due to a puncture (steel or fabric) it's a lottery - but a small nail is unlikely to be a problem - a cut is something else. Personally, I'd change the tyre.
User avatar
By stinkwheel
I was using the term slime as a specific branded product. They sued to do demos at bike rallies, drilling holes in tyres and suchlike. They also treated and inflated a mates tyre for free when he picked up a nail at the rally so good on them. Got him home and worth a plug.

I've had three genuine blowouts on a motorcycle. Two were on the bullet after the tyre carcasse slipped round and ripped the valve off the tube. One happened on the German Autobahn, the other happened while overtaking a milk tanker. Both of these were rear wheel blowouts. The rear-end of the bike stepped right out and I landed up riding along like a speedway bike, countersteering heavily to maintain a straight course. Purely instinctive but it seemed to stabilise under power and get increasingly unstable off the power. The key to success seemed to be to bring the speed down gradually with short blips of throttle then engine braking. I felt applying either brake would have resulted in disaster.

The third was a "proper" blowout on a front tyre on my old Minsk 125. The main tread separated from the sidewall on a 3" section of tyre and the inner tube explosively decompressed through the gap. There was a bang. I have no idea how I stayed with that one.

Tubeless radials seem to go down more slowly and once flat, seem to stay mostly up and under the bike until the speed drops below 20mph at which point it's down to luck. Presumably this is a function of centrepetal force, a relatively ridged carcasse and minimal sidewalls.

My record is 3 stop and go bungs in a z-rated sportsbike tyre. Road tested up to 157mph and I left it on until canvas was showing. The only rubber on parts of the tyre were the bung.

Shop for accessories at Hitchcocks Motorcycles