Forum

[Myname]

Hi All,
Has anyone got some advice/tips on the way to set up the 6" double sls front brake for best braking efficiency.

[papasmurf]

I assume you mean twin leading shoe brake?
(Model and year of bike would help.)

[Myname]

No I mean the double sided 6" front brake fitted to Bullets, Meteors, Constellations etc between about 1955 and 1962.

[Bullet Whisperer]

The double sided 6" brake can work very well if set up properly. The linings need to make good contact all the way around their length and width when the brake is on and I have machined the linings of some while on their brake plates, with the brake arms pulled 'on' a little and locked in place, to make sure of a good fit in the drum. Also, with the 'self centering' cam housings, I only have them slack while I centre the shoes up in the drum and while holding the brake on, I lock those two bolts up and their corresponding locknuts. Setting the brakes up in this manner and with the brake arm ends as close to the ground as you can get them when free and still be within reach of their cables with their adjusters fully backed off will give the best results. Regards, Paul.

[Bullet Whisperer]

Just to add - the self centering [or floating] cam housings are great for resetting the brakes periodically, or if the shoes or linings are changed, but to back up my reasons for locking them solid afterwards [front and rear] just look at the later Redditch RE machines and you will see in many cases, the idea was dropped.

[Adrian]

This sort of thing, papasmurf.











When I bought my '57 Bullet the drums had rusted up in storage and the bike could barely move. I was fortunate enough to get away with cleaning up the drums and shoes and fitting a new pair of front brake cables from our hosts to get unexpectedly good front braking (the rear one needed cleaning up too but worked OK afterwards). The front brake spindles were locked in (bolted up) place rather than floating but had at least been lined up well and didn't need further adjustment.



Assuming properly round brake drums and linings sized to fit, the trick seems to be getting everything properly centered so that the linings properly contact the surfaces of the drums and adjusted so that both brakes come on at the same time.



A.

[Adrian]

Sorry about that, Bullet Whisperer managed to get his posts in while I was still typing and mucking around with importing pictures!



A.

[Myname]

Thanks for this chaps. I'd got the brake arms fairly low and the linings are making good contact but I've left the cam housing floating. I'll tighten them up and hopefully that should lead to reasonably good braking.
It's on a 1958 Constellation and lack of front braking power is the only fault I can pick with the bike. Easy starting despite the TT carb, good handling, pulls well from bugger all revs, comfortable, enjoyable to ride and is, I think, a handsome looking bike.

[vince]

Hi, my workshop manual states the front wheel cam housing should be just loose enough to move with your fingers and the rear brake should be adjusted and then locked tight. Vince

[Myname]

Yes mine does too and I set it up that way but it obviously isn't working at it's best. Bullet WHisperer and Papasmurf are advising about what they've found works well from their own experience.