Forum

[Adrian]

The bike will run without one, but it's needed to reduce vibration.



Also consider our hosts' cable conversion for the choke/cold start on the carburettor which means you can operate it with a traditional handlebar lever rather than your knee. Part no 90195.



A.

[Lord-Toady]

Oh no this is becoming more of a job than I thought starting the day with a nice ride in the country and endig with my carb off the bike. I have a new cable from hitchcocks to go on because the throttle has always seemed to stick slightly and thought this would be a good time to fit it and doing manifold is easier with carb out the way. I went to fit the new manifold rubber but have no gasket to fit it with there were two old ones on there one on top of the other so have removed the old ones and cleaned up the manifold ready for a new one. Its fiddly to remove the throttle cable if you have not done it before as the manual doesnt explain it very well. I think my carb looks manky and could use a clean and a bit of a service, maybe the return spring is a bit tierd as well and needs replacing. Any comments and suggestions about the condition of my carb pic below? I have stripped down and cleaned one of a klr 650 in the past and it worked when I put it back together so I am not too much of a numpty.

[Lord-Toady]

Any recommendations on things to order while I have the carb off that it could do with I already need a gasket and head steady. Maybe a new throttle return spring as well and some carb cleaner to spray it all out with?

[Adrian]

A good clean-up inside and out wouldn't hurt, there's a little bit of wear on the slide but it doesn't look too bad. You can also have the carburettor ultrasonically cleaned.



A.

[Lord-Toady]

Yep will give it a good clean, I noticed the rubber on top of the choke plunger was all perished and split so will replace that I can also check what jets are in while I am cleaning so I will know for sure. I like the idea of that choke relocation cable.

[Topgirl]

Yeah it is and check your tank isn't loose.

[Lord-Toady]

I think my plan with the carb is to take it apart and unscrew the jets then wash the carb body and main aluminium parts in hot water and washing up liquid then use carb cleaner on the jets and more delicate parts dry with compressed air then put it all back together.

Does anyone know the part number for the bolts I need to connect the head steady to the head, I have found the head steady in the catalogue but am not sure on the nuts and bolt. I take it the other end shares the bolt that secures that back of the tank?

Also while I am ordering from hitchcocks I need to get some sealing washers and also the washer is missing from behind my neutral finder and making the lever rub on the gearbox case so I need one of them too. My gearbox drain washer is white plastic and keeps leaking and coming loose.

[Lord-Toady]

I have found the stud I think 41147 but can't find the nuts to go with it, might have to ring up.

[Lord-Toady]

Have found the parts book online on the site very handy so have my part numbers, going to order stainless head steady.

[Lord-Toady]

Have ordered the head steady bits, bolt, sleeve and nut in stainless from our hosts and a stainless stud that goes through the head to hold it. Also a new return spring for my carb, float chamber gasket and rubber cap for where the throttle cable goes in. £40 in total including shipping, I don't want to go mad on the carb as the bike is running ok, just want it back together and rideable soon as possible.