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[papasmurf]

Adrian, a Japanese named battery made in America.

[Adrian]

Thanks papasmurf, I have ordered a different make.



@ Nico, sounds like you have the best possible power supply, at least in theory, but I think I'd want to use a Pazon ignition which is less sensitive. Or fit a magneto!



You mention that your Bullet is a 1999 model, did it originally have the AC headlight with Minda awitches? I have twice been caught out using this type of switch when wiring the whole system to use 12V DC, make sure the red and yellow wire into the switch cluster is not connected to anything.



A.

[Dav350]

I am having a long running very similar problem on my '96 350 bullet. Having just done another run, with pilot leaned off, the bike runs fine when above 10mph and over 1/8 throttle, does an indicated 60mph on flat. When I come to a stop after a varied 15 mile journey it cuts out, will not idle.Pulled the plug and it's soothed up. Whilst pondering this, I noticed when the choke is operated it comes on fine, when closed it only closes half way, the fork on the control lever overrides the detent of the plunger, leaving the choke half on. This will be my next investigation, remove the lever, operate the choke via some other temporary method to ensure I can fully close it. Have you checked your choke operation?

[NicoV]

@Adrian
It is a January 1999 Bullet and it originally had Magura controls.
I am thinking of switching to another electronic ignition, or reinstalling the contact breaker points.
The short/high current problem only occurs when the headlights are on.
@Dav350
I will check the choke operation.

[NicoV]

I had a look at the specs of the Pazon Altair electronic ignition. Looks very interesting: runs on voltage down to 6V, has a light for static tuning that would eliminate the need of
removing the left cover and spilling the transmission oil of the primary transmission. And a dedicated output for a tachometer, but that is only a gadget.
But it isn't cheap....

[Adrian]

1999 was the changeover year from DC to AC headlighting, Does your Bullet still have the Magura switches or is it now using the Minda type used on AC headlight Bullets? My first bungled attempt to wire a Minda-type switch for all DC had both main and dip beam coming on together, which would certainly have caused a serious drain (120W!) on the power available for the ignition.



The Pazon Sure Fire also works on the Bullet and is somewhat cheaper.



A.

[NicoV]

@Adrian, it is a Jan. 99 Bullet with Magura controls. I probably made that mistake too while converting from Magura to Minda. I regretted. I think the Magura controls are better quality, but the clutch was rather hard to pull with them.

[Super45]

I've recent,y had reason to question the quality of the minda gear fitted to my bike (2000 350) , ive just changed the handlebars from the export high spec bars to the fifties one the our hosts sell and found that when re tightening the bolts both clutch and brake lever brackets snapped half way around from the bolt, on investigation i discovered they had sheered some time ago with only a thin bit of metal holding them on so im glad they happned when the bike is off the road rather than at speed, ive got magura bits on my push bikes and ive never had an issue with them.

[Adrian]

You can still get Magura clutch and brake levers (dog-leg type for use with separate switchgear, so you can use them with Minda switches) from Venhill Engineering, but they're not cheap!



https://www.venhill.co.uk/controls-amp- ... s.html?p=1



A.

[NicoV]

Adrian, thanks. I think the levers on Minda are more ergonomical (have to use less force), but the electrical controls and the way the control is fitted to the handlebar is imho much better with Magura.
I still have my old ones, and will put them back. I don't like the way the Minda controls are bolted. It is never tight, and they tend to move around. I also find the switches feel "cheap". They move too easily.