- Sat Apr 07, 2018 1:31 pm
#75527
Link didn't work for me. No matter, I did the job this morning. It was simple enough. My 2015 C5 had no gasket either, though I elected to fit one, hopefully reusable having greased both sides. Should be quicker next time now that I won't have to fish out all the silicone. I used a length of dowel to knock off the chain case from the r/h side of the bike, using the tab on the bottom rear - the only one I can see can be used for this purpose without a lot of dismantling. I also used the tool that screws into the chain case, though that isn't really needed. I found the clutch centre holding tool really useful in undoing the sprang nut and clutch centre nut and torquing them up again. My sprag nut had thread lock on it so I used some on reassembly. I found that it's unnecessary to drain the oil to do this job. I put the l/h main stand foot on a piece of wood so that the bike leaned a little to the right. Although oil came out very little passes through the holes between the inner chain case and the crankcase. It's a mystery to me how two bits of chain roller found their way to the magnetic sump. I found it easier to remove the pivot bolt at the front of the tensioner, as it wasn't clear to me how the tension should be removed once the nut and spring have been removed. It is now, but I'd probably do the same again. Although my chain was fine I now have peace of mind, especially given the awful rear chain originally on my bike. I gave the bike a brief test run - no oil leaks and a bit of a bonus in that the gear lever and footrest are now better positioned for my foot. Job done. I have to say I was impressed with the cleanliness inside the chain case and with the design and condition of the clutch.
