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By Smithy
#74750
Wow thank you one and all for such a wealth of good information. It will take me a while to work through all of the ideas you have put forward, but I'm very grateful for your help.

I usually run bikes with carbs (my other bike is a 1998 BMW F650) and know virtually zero about FI so the carb replacement kit looks interesting to me. Then again this may be an opportunity to learn something new.

Thanks again

Ian
By Off to the shed again
#74751
Alan r may well beat me to it, but when you solve your problem, would you please let us know so we can all learn something. I have nothing to add from the excellent advise already given, sorry! Regards, Chris.
By Rattlebattle
#74755
Smithy (and anyone else who may be interested) I suggest you visit Youtube and look at the videos made by singh5g They really are very useful and show simply and clearly how to do a whole host of tests etc to an EFI RE bike, including the tps setting. As log as you have a multi meter and a couple of paper clips you are good to go. You will note that actually the cps should be set to 0.6v +/- 0.2v, so ric yours is right on the upper limit. IIRC the higher the voltage the richer - a popular mod in the days when I owned a couple of BMW oilseeds was to set the tps voltage a little higher than the factory setting to get rid of surging. Also, unless one has removed the auto decompressor one won't be able to get a reliable tickover at 350rpm because that is the point at which it kicks in. My carb-equipped C5 ticks over nicely and, importantly, very reliably unlike when it had the original set-up when it would hunt and occasionally stall (something to which the CGT is more prone). As my auto-decompressor works fine I have left it alone. Personally I'd do that anyway on an early C5 because the sprag clutch wasn't too clever and they didn't have kickstarts. I never used the bi-valve starter on mine because I found it really awkward and anyway it wasn't necessary at the ambient temperatures at which I use my bikes. Wideband O2 sensors as used on cars constantly measure exhaust emissions and adjust the mixture accordingly throughout the rev range and can accommodate exhaust changes with no bother. The narrow band ones on these and other bikes with crude EFI systems only operate at the lower end; they do not do anything at WOT. I forgot to mention, Smithy, that there is another option - a Dobeck. This is a much cheaper version of the PCV on which you can actually alter the fuel mapping as you ride (insert favoured H&S warning about own risk etc HERE). Our American and Australian fellow sufferers (sorry, owners) favour these. Try a search on forum.classicmotorworks.com; this is the American equivalent of this forum and has loads of info on it, especially on the EFI models. Worth joining, but it can be a bit awkward to do so. Good luck.
By Rattlebattle
#74756
Sorry about the predictive text booboos; I hope you can make sense of it all. BTW an analogue multimeter is handy for checking the operation of the tps because it shows as a clear sweep of the needle how the voltage increases as the throttle is opened - a lot clearer than constantly changing figure on a digital one, which is a better bet for absolute measurements at either end of the scale.
By Smithy
#74774
Hi

I suspect that the richness is only on start up and immediate warm up as I haven't seen black smoke when I rev the engine once it is warmed up. I only use the fast idle lever if the temperature is around zero so I know it's not overuse of that.

I don't think I'm too worried by it as the bike is running well so why worry.

At this point I'm not sure how long I will keep the Enfield. I do somewhere between 10 and 15 thousand miles a year and the Enfield seems a little 'fragile'. I am not looking to insult anyone, but it just doesn't strike me as being able to stand up to that level of use. I love how it runs and sounds but somehow I'm not sure it meets my needs for a bike.

Anyway thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it.

Ian
By Jamesy
#74786
Get rid before it depreciates in price any more and they do depriciate.For that kind of mileage buy a BMW or something like a Honda transalp.
By Jamesy
#74788
One bike worth a mention for high mileages is the Suzuki v-strom.I know bike mechanics who swear by there reliability and quality.The new Honda Africa twin is also worth a mention if you can afford it.
By Smithy
#74789
Hi Guys

Jamesy I have a BMW F650 that I am currently re-building. It is my third F650 and my eighth BMW. The last F650 I had was stolen when it had 75000 miles on the clock and an R80 I had before that had 95000 miles on the clock when I stupidly sold it. Thanks for your comments on depreciation that is something certainly worth considering.

Alan I had an XBR 500 a while back and it was a cracking good bike. I'm a member of Thumper Club and they're very popular with members and me. Do you have one to sell?

Ian
By Jamesy
#74792
Totally forgot about Royal Enfields Himalayan from the "workhorse"stable.Dont know if it's the best for lots of motorway miles.I had a BMW F650 funduro 1998 model a while back.Now that's a workhorse.

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