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By Felix
#7979
I'm awaiting new valves and piston, and this is my inlet valve leak.
Would this respond to a recutting? And has anyone used the carbide cutters from India?
Image
By Mark M
#73211
Felix, you might be able to grind that out yourself using paste. Worth a try. Don't buy valve seat cutting tools from India, just not worth the money, get it done professionally here, it won't cost much. I'd do the valve guides too, false economy not to as you're in there anyway.

REgards, Mark
By Felix
#73212
Thanks Mark,
You're right. The inlet guide is a bit worn, and I'll get a proper valve job.
I just paid off my medical bills from a bike crash, so I was feeling stingy.
By Alan R
#73213
Hi Guys-----Mark, you might remember from a few years ago there was a spate of Bullet owners coming onto the forum complaining of a similar situation in which their engines lost compression and upon stripping the head they found what appeared to be small, metallic deposits on their valves and/or valve seats..... Felix's photo looks very similar.........Can you, or anyone else remember what was the outcome ??.........Something to do with the continued use of low grade fuels maybe ??

Felix, if it comes down to a choice of where to spend a limited amount of cash on your bike then dumping the OEM piston has to be top-of-the-list followed very closely by a modern re-work of the cyl. head......Things like Electronic ignition and Gold-star exhausts can always wait ( CB points and a sausage silencer will keep the bike going non the less !! )....
By Felix
#73215
Alan,
Reliability is my goal. I just want it to start, idle and run well. Mechanical ignition works fine for me.
So far I've learned much about my bike:
The piston crown is barely attached to the bottom half and and awaits liftoff.
It takes three large gears to rotate the point cam on a long wobbly shaft.
Some fasteners don't match my Whitworth, SAE or metric tools.
Power can be raised to 30HP for the price of a used SV650.
Oil to the crankshaft depends on rubber stopper or cork.
Front braking can be made adequate. Rear, not so much.
The gearbox has a missing gear between 3rd and 4th.
The clutch may either drag or slip. Choose one.
Instrument needles are mostly decorative.
Looks better than most new bikes.
The oil filter is a baby's sock.
The stop light is aptly named.
Primary case seals well.
It handles quite well.
Doesn't leak much.
It's easy to push.
It needs me.

By papasmurf
#73219
That look likes casting faults. They MIGHT be able to be machined out, but I suspect, that a valve seat insert might be necessary.
By ric
#73223
Alan R. Looks like typical micro welding which can temporarily be removed by grinding.
Bottom line it's typically the result of having a poor quality valve seat and exacerbated by using poor quality fuels.
By Felix
#73310
I found the culprit.
Someone had ground the valve to 1/8" smaller diameter and the valve was seating on the lowest edge of the pitted face. Mr. H sent me new valves and the inlet was much larger. This may be why I couldn't get the beast to idle when hot. My machinist will install new guides and cut the seats. The stem caps were cracked and some other issues will be cleaned up. BTW, that Hitchcock exhaust valve is a work of art. Thanks to Paul and his rubber glove trick, I knew the intake leaked before disassembly.
Thanks, guys.
By Alan R
#73313
Smaller by 1/8" dia. ??------You're lucky the thing didn't pull up into the passageway....Even though your machinist will cut the new seat for you don't forget to just give the valve a slight lapping-in with fine paste...A light grey colour should do it......The bike will feel transformed when back on the road......Remember, photos please when done....

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