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[Rattlebattle]

By my calculations the volume of the panniers, based on the internal dimensions in H's catalogue, is just under 18 litres, not that it makes much difference. They're more like city cases than touring panniers. Still tempted though...

[jefrs]

Yeah, they look very nice. Just not sure they're practical.

[Rattlebattle]

How does the rear mudguard come off? Looking at the schematic on our hosts website the way the mudguard fits seems different to mine with regard to the top stay that follows the contour of the mudguard. As far as I can tell the mudguard is either welded to the top stay or there is a small allen screw in twoplaces on either side, screwed into the stay from the inside. I can see that the top pannier mounts would probably require the mudguard to be separated from the stay to pass the loop of the bracket between the two pieces. If the mudguard is indeed welded to the stay I can't see howe the top bracket can be fitted. Probably my ignorance but some clarification would be appreciated. Thanks. It would be helpful if there were up-to-date schematics really.

[jefrs]

The C5 mudguard - you undo and remove the two bolts near the foot rests and loosen two upper bolts to bosses welded to the frame, the mudguard hinges up (this can pull the tail lamp loom connector apart), the lower points can be a pain to get out of their now-crushed cups (poor design, should be single-sided). However you first have to remove the pillion seat which is one bolt under the seat and slide back from loosened shock absorber bolts. And if you have pannier frames you may have to take them off too. Hence my cutting the 'Electra' frames so they come off with the pillion seat. But the rear wheel can be got out quite easily without lifting the mudguard by tipping it well over to the right on the centre stand.



The hoop that supports the mudguard is attached by several bolts from the inside. These seem to have been tightened by a gorilla. I've put a spanner on them but not sure I want to press harder for fear of snapping one off. I can bend a screwdriver in my fingers, so I reckon they're done up a bit too tight.

To get the box-pannier frame mounts around the bar you would have to loosen them somehow. Bolts inside a mudguard have an 'orrible tendency to rust-weld themselves in place, lots of penetrating oil (which is light lube oil in white spirits or naphtha) and maybe some heat, 'cos I really dislike using EZ-outs or drilling out snapped bolts.



The diagrams on H only go up to 2010 models, bikes from 2011 are not covered; for example footpegs and oil filter O-rings are different, I suspect several other variations.

[jefrs]

http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/pa ... r_Mudguard is not the same as the 2011-on models. The upper pivot (2) is roughly the same as is bottom release (6) but the hoop is now attached by several bolts from the inside into threaded blind bosses instead of the small screws (5). The result is much stronger and neater but harder to remove.

[Rattlebattle]

Thanks for that; as far as I can tell it looks like my rear mudguard is attached to the upper, curved, stays using small Allen screws on the inside. Although my mudguard isn't old enough to be corroded, I won't be buying the panniers without first seeing if I can undo the weedy looking (and eminently roundoffable - is that a word - screws. At least if I try it beforehand I won't be committed to removing them. Thanks once again.

[jefrs]

Might be an idea to spray the undersides of the mudguard(s) with Waxoyl when you get a tuit to protect it and the screws from gunge and corrosion. Some will swear at ACF50 but Waxoyl in intended for this purpose, forms a semi-permanent seal. The screws holding the mudguard to the hoop are easy to get at with the tail lifted.

[Presto]

Jefrs I think you’ll find, if you ask, that our hosts stock an abundance of parts and accessories for post 2010 models. Although later bikes have some changed parts these do not always affect the fitting of accessories. Maybe a good idea is to work on the principle that "it’s always worth asking" – you may find they have far more for those later bikes than you seem to imagine.

[jefrs]

I did ask which is how I found H only know the full lists of part numbers up to incl 2010 although they do have parts for later bikes by research working on the bike, they don't know the complete kit list for the later bikes. H are not official stockist and RE are particularly poor at providing part lists to anyone including their own dealers; one can't work like that, RE need provide up to date complete parts lists of every nut & bolt, and service manuals too. Hence the diagrams in the Parts Books Online only go to 2010.



I discovered this when I wanted to modify a foot peg so I could move it (failed experiment). H sent me a splined one but the later models have the same size but on a semi-circular key (they swapped it of course). The O-rings for the oil filter are also different on the later models. The wiring diagram is slightly different too. There are any number of undocumented changes to the later models.



And I've found that if you want to ensure you get the best correct part for a later model, it is always best to phone Hitchcocks to check and advise.

[jefrs]

Rattlebattle, I believe the mudguard screws on mine are hex heads but I wouldn't put it past RE to change spec on these on a daily basis. I guess one chap was give a bucket full of hex heads and the other a box of Allens, I would not be at all surprised if we got a mixture on the same bike. Why on earth has the bottom fitting for the mudguard frame got an Allen, the top one is hex, it must be the only large Allen screw on the bike and it's on the outside where it looks like a sore thumb on a retro-classic.



Lifting the tail on mine is complicated by the pillion seat and 'Electra' (leather) pannier frames. I intended to clean and Waxoyl the last time I lifted it to remove the wheel when I reassembled the brake properly, but I timed out. Now I've got all the accessories mounted it's easier to tip the bike to get the wheel out. Although the way I've got the pannier frames mounted, they should come away with the pillion seat (3 bolts). But I doubt it will get Waxoyled until I wash the winter crud off next year. One thing I noted was the clever design that rips out the tail lighting loom connector when you lift the mudguard, oops.