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[jefrs]

PeteF - the spacer tube (6 on 2010 C5 diagram), I tried it a few different ways. It has to fit into a recess on the hub, in other words it won't go into the swinging arm unless it's pushed into the wheel hub first, and the wheel has to be pushed onto the cush drive where it will hang tipping down to accept the spacer, then lift and knock the spacer into place on the swinging arm, then push the spindle through. Sounds complicated but all rather quick and easy. The spindle comes through from the left, spacer tube first, so if you aim the spindle through the spacer before it is inserted into the recess you have to force the swinging arm to spring apart, it id rather hefty so that's hard work.

I'm sure there are other ways to do it. I tried other was including levering the spacer up with the spindle but this way was so quick and easy I thought I should mention it again.

[jefrs]

Haggis the 2010 diagram http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/pa ... Rear_Wheel_ is not quite correct for the 2011-on bikes. You have found the small spacer that sits against the oil seal, it may stick to the hub with grease, it seems to be an additional 2011-on part, do not misplace it It seems to allow the large spacer tube (6) to reassemble easier because it rocks.

If you have the wheel off it may be worth feeding the bearings some nice grease



Btw there is a much prettier alloy (8) "cover, rear hub" than the tin disc. Mine got chewed up by a foreign objet trouve stuck in the shock absorber.

[vince]

Hi, As someone who repairs punctures at the side of the road, (back on the road in 15mins). Its easier to reassemble if the spindle is put in from the opposite side, the wheel will then be held in the cushdrive and the spacers can be added as you tap it through. I carry two blocks of wood in the pannier to put under the stand to raise the bike if needed. Vince.

[MickB]

Off topic I'm afraid.. Leon, is that the Givi wind screen you've got fitted? Any chance of some more photos as I'm thinking of fitting one to my efi. How much difference does it make to your riding comfort? (Nice bike by the way!)

[jefrs]

Vince, I am so not lugging around half a railway sleeper in the panniers, not when I can find a kerb. Nor do the 10-in tyre irons fit in the tool box, nor a spanner big enough to undo the spindle nut. So no spare inner tube, pump neither. I do however carry a phone.

My problem would be getting the tyre off and on again, not getting the wheel out and back in again.

[papasmurf]

I carry a sockets to fit the front and rear wheel nuts and short ratchet for the sockets, I worry how much torque people are applying to the nuts. (Especially as the rear spindle has an castle nut and R clip, and the front has a nyloc nut.
The previous owner of my bike had done the wheel spindle nuts up so tight I had to by a three foot long bar to undo them.

[PeteF]

OK Jefrs, obviously the spacer different from the pre EFI models.
You could always machine up two spacers to replace the single one.

[nigelphoto]

Just read the owners manual!

[jefrs]

PeteF, I don't see the point of cutting into two, I can get the wheel lifted onto the cush and the spacer knocked in, in a matter of seconds. It is really very, very quick.

[jefrs]

Nigel, the Owners Manual talks of "wheel collar and spacer". And tip bike to RHS, like what I said ages ago. Putting it back asks you to, "Till vehicle to the right..." (sic) and then the easy bit (not), "Hold wheel collar and spacer in position" (which needs a nice thump to get them in position) and then, "Introduce wheel spindle ... from LH side ... gently tap it through the wheel". So the "wheel collar" must be the extra washer-like thing but then Owners Manual also uses pics of the previous models incl a castellated nut where we have a nyloc.