This Forum is now CLOSED use the link to get more details viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13924#p102587
By AndyMc
#61130
Thanks everyone. Have replaced the oil with fully synth bike oil. There was a lot of fur on the magnets. She has only done 1000 miles from New in 2010. Been for a good run 220 miles to cumbria and back on A roads. Great fun.. the decimpressor makes sense. It is quite a loud clicking noise which stops when throttle is blipped or after about 20 seconds. It is not continuous. Anyway I am learning the noises and foibles. Bit of a flat spot which sometimes causes the engine to die on very light throttle and blew the main fuse as the headlight bulb shorted on the Speedo cable in the headlight Cowell. Certainly good fun to ride.
By Beezabryan
#61132
There are many reasons why if ever I had the urge to buy another Bullet Guess what I would not have.
By nigelphoto
#61135
Perhaps not best to use fully synth oil - the Handbook is quite clear that the correct oil is 15W50 ester-based semi synthetic, e.g. Motul or Silkolene. On new Bullets this can be a warranty issue. Why so certain? I've just been there!
User avatar
By Haggis
#61136
He has a 2010 Indian import so I don't think there will any warranty issue's.
By jefrs
#61142
With only 1000 miles on the clock the engine is over the hump but still running in, so fur or paste on the magnets is normal and even to be expected throughout its life, what we don't want to see is big lumps.



Yes the handbook calls for a semi-synth which is about as good as they get in India. The thing is to meet the same spec 15W50 API SL Grade JASO MA. The latter part is the spec for wet-plate clutch - it it doesn't meet JASO there is a chance the friction plates can unglue because they're attached with a water-based cement (because they run in 'solvent'). Having had 350,000 miles out of an engine on syth, I'm convinced it is better than semi, but that's me.



The indian domestic models are not built to the same spec as the export models. There are a number of differences. Different tyres for a start. The ECU on the export is marked "Export" so expect different mapping, and is the 2010 domestic supposed to have that O2 sensor or not?



The decompressor 'clack' should disappear at 700rpm and/or within 10 seconds, it is a bit of a variable function but should improve as the motor beds in a bit more. Should start up, "click, click, click, click, CLACK!", and the motor picks up.



The flat spot just above tick-over is the EFI.

It may be improved by raising the idle a /little/ (brass screw hidden on throttle body, about 1050rpm) and eliminated with the Power Commander V (PCV) (with Hitchcocks' mapping and some fiddling about on the laptop).

Using the laptop is equivalent to re-jetting and adjusting a carburettor, but without stripping anything out. It's a pity the stock ECU doesn't have any adjustment or allow for remapping.

But the domestic ECU is the domestic ECU and I've got no idea what you've got in there.
By jefrs
#61143
Fuses, connections and bulbs - the indian fuses on my then brand new C5 were all corroded (powdery white oxide), the indian bulbs ill fitting in their holders and the spade connectors although well crimped on by a gorilla are rather thin and poorly plated. Swap all the fuses out, they should be car type but there are two sizes of these blade fuses, but they're as cheap as chips. Change the bulbs as they blow but change all the bulbs as you get at them not just the blown one. Clean spade connectors by pulling them out and putting them back together, and also do the same at the back of the fuse box and all the relays. I had a lamp blow in the MIL thing which blew the main fuse, replaced the lot. Headlamp bulb currently a Halfords Extreme +120% halogen H4 60/55W, it seems to work nicely - any 'british' halogen you put in there will be better than the indian one.
By AndyMc
#61163
Hi, the decimpressor noise has been confirmed by my local bike shop who used to deal in 'RE' s. I can stop panicking now.
Other differences on the import are it is a twin spark (one normal size one very small) and it has a strange additional breather pipe from the top of the engine, through a vacuum valve and into the airbox. Tyres and Speedo were changed for the SVI but all else seems the same.
Advice from the mechanic was to check the oil level with the engine running as this seemed to give a more consistent level.
The headlight is a bit naff so I will change the bulb.
By nigelphoto
#61307
No no, Andy - don't check the oil level with the engine running as you would well overfill it. Do it exactly as the handbook says (you have a handbook don't you?) run it on level ground on the centre stand for 3-4 mins, leave it 5 mins and check the sight glass. If its running, theres a good 200 cc in the tappet chest (I have our hosts clear acrylic tappet cover, pure bling but I love it!) theres some in the rocker boxes, theres a lot in all the oil ways the wrong side of the return etc etc. If this is an RE mechanic who's advising you to check it with the engine running ask the shop how many they've had back with blown seals and soaked air filters! And by the way, on all Fora (plural of Forum??) you'll get advice and more advice - its up to you which you choose. To repeat what it says in the handbook, the oil should be 15w 50 ester-based SEMI-synthetic (for the correct operation of the hydraulic tappets and the clutch).
User avatar
By PeteF
#61308
Andy, if you have the decomp coming in at tickover AND the engine dying when you crack the throttle it could be the tickover is too slow?
By AndyMc
#61342
Thanks again, certainly plenty of experience on here. I will follow your advice re the oil level. it goes up and down like the proverbial but i'm getting used to it. Maybe the mech has an ulterior motive!
I was parked next to an English sourced classic 500 at Rivington barn yesterday. Same colour and everything. interesting comparison between Indian home market and export model. The fasteners on the export were much better quality and the exhaust was different without what seems to be a cat just in the end of the downpipe. may take my chisel to it after changing the bolts etc to stainless.
No twin spark either. maybe the emission regs are now tighter in India than they are here. Having been there recently i can understand why.

Shop for accessories at Hitchcocks Motorcycles