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[mauri]

ginetta lad



these are the diagrams from our host, as can be viewed by any one.



there is no need to waist the splined part of the schaft, thats the part you need.

the green line is what you remove and reattach the remaining splined axel to the part where the arrow point.

which length you keep is to your preference, depending if you won’t the lever to stick out a little more or not!







standard the gear lever sits level and sticks out just enough to not touch the seal , so you have to rig it up before you weld it together.

personal i prefer it to sit a little higher and stick out a bit more and use a bushing on both sides but thats a personal choice.

[Ginetta lad]

I did wonder if that was how I would shorten it keeping the splined part. I bought the studs only to find my engine already had them fitted! Where are the drawings on the web site? H

[PeteF]

These drawings are in the "parts book on line"

[mauri]

left menu>parts books online>350 or 500 indian bullet>select year>crank case fitting



the with of the 4 speed gear box at the mounting holes are:

br>
top 98mm

bottom 92mm



5speed are:



top 98mm

bottom 104mm



i got lucky one time with a pair of top studs of a 4speed that where treaded shorter then there normal length, and in the bottom position with a washer and nut sat juuuust flush with the end of the stud.



in normal condition the 4speed top stud in the bottom position sits half way in the nut.

[Ginetta lad]

Just realised the later bike catalogue for the sixty 5 has better pictures than my year 92/93!

[mauri]

when i had 5 minutes to spare i tough of making a drawing of the shortened gear leaver shaft.



1. cut of the part between the arrows.



2.this is what is needed if you want to use the two bushing method.



3. before welding these together make a smal reduction(1mm smaller,1mm wide) on the splined axel, make an equal opening in the none splined axel.



4. weld these together, it is very important that the two axels are dead centered to each other.

it needs to be a minimalistic weld, ideally done with a TIG without adding material just melting them together.



5. this is what our host sells, single busing method.

[Ginetta lad]

Ok I've got the box cover off and the shaft out. I like your double side support idea but need to work out an accurate way of centre pointing the blank cover through the existing hole for drilling. It's 14mm diameter on the bearing surfaces but not all the way along the shaft. The bush and oil seal on mine need a 20mm hole but the standard oil seal is poor and only 3mm thick. Have you found a better one? If the one side only approach is taken then only the new hole is used I guess it doesn't need to match the opposite bush and hole. Now I need to find someone with a lathe to turn down the gear shaft. I wonder if the opposite side of the shaft is centre drilled and threaded then the remaining rhs part could be turned down and screwed into it and be lock tighten or soldered as an alternative to welding? H

[Ginetta lad]

I forgot to say my old box had a 19T sprocket but the new one only 18T. As such my gearing will be lower unless I can find a 19T for the 5 speed box? They seem quite hard to find so will one fit ok or is 18T my limit? Anyone got one going spare?

[Adrian]

Our hosts list them, 90095 GEARBOX SPROCKET, 19T, 5 SPEED £27.50, about halfway down the page:



http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/ac ... ox-gearbox

[mauri]

the standard oil seal is no cause for problems, but the shaft itself is to indian standards not always correct.

the bearing surface should be 14mm, but i have encountered some that where 13,7mm.



in such a case the seal won’t seal to well, but has nothing to do with seal itself but rather the variable quality of the indian parts.



the axel and pivot plate are welded together.

there isn’t enough material to use a screw in method safely, it needs to be welded.