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[jefrs]

re Count Johnny's method - a stainless nut is a lot harder than the spindle thread and will correct it but a ss nut that size is expensive (unless you have one in your O&S bin), meaning save the money and buy a new spindle. Dunno about the grinding paste, maybe a dose of oil, if the old nut came off a new one will go on. Wire brush will remove minor burrs, if you have to use the triangular file the thread is a bit past serviceable, it'll work but these things are a bit of a temporary measure. If you have access to a full workshop then use a die box but they're about £50 (less than that and they're made of cheese) and it's get a new spindle. The spindle is held in place by the clamp bolts so it is reasonable to assume it's safe. I would get a new spindle as soon as my tuit arrives.

[Count Johnny]

Of course, Jefrs is right - in that such parts are readily available and inexpensive - but if you have a tired thread on something that isn't (say a thread in or on a frame) and find that the thread will start but not finish, my aforementioned trick works very well.

[jefrs]

Count Johnny - It's a very old trick to me and one I've used many many times because it works. Dad was a master-toolmaker and I inherited most of his tools including some odd die boxes, but none of the big ones. A die is for tapping unthreaded rod, so if you have a new nut it will likely correct a slightly damaged thread; stainless is much harder than tool steel, so if you have a stainless nut ... It is usual to add 'cutting fluid' (oil and paraffin) to a die, so oil on the nut helps. I have always wire-brushed the bolt thread to clean it out thoroughly. Truthfully, I have never seen or heard of grinding paste being used.

[Dennis C]

Jefrs, I guess you confusing your metals?, tool steel in all forms in very hard and resistant to wear, it is formulated to make tools with including taps and dies.

[Scalyback]

depends on which grade of tool steel.

There's one called 'made in china' which might as well be made out of china! I tend to avoid that one.



although not made in china, the above have a similar strength. (they do taste better though!)

[Dennis C]

Fantastic Scalyback, must be a Christmas present?.

[jefrs]

Dennis C - not really no, the hardness and strength of austenitic, martensitic and tool steel overlaps depending on grade and whether annealed or hardened. Stainless does not make such a good cutting tool because it won't form as fine an edge, otoh it is harder to grind, cut and shape. Lathe tools are easily made from tool steel on the bench grinder. Tool steel (a die) will cut into the damaged thread whereas a stainless nut should push the threads back into place without removing material. A normal nut, mild steel or brass will be deformed itself by the damaged thread, it may do the trick but will have to be discarded.

[Beezabryan]

Bertie is replacing a speedo drive, the nut on the spindle is to hold it in place, somehow the axle thread has got burred. It is not load bearing so me I would stick the thing back with a blob of thread lock & forget all about fancy fixes but then again I am not a metalurgical scientist so what do i know

[scotty]

Hi I had a damaged thread on a drive side shaft dinged inside rotor think something dropped on it at factory had a spare alt nut put a saw cut in it very slightly nipped it in vice applied neverseize and screwed it down threadhalf a turn back and forward cut allowed all the swarf out thread cleaned up nicely got to save the good ones indian stuff lately has 40 thou runout getting as bad as brit stuff where they flogged the machinery to death.