Forum

[MartinB]

I have just spent time composing a reply only to lose it in cyber space..........Here goes again....I should have explained more clearly that i don't think i am expecting too much of the engine in terms of a throttle response.The point is i know there is something amiss with either the fuel delivery or on the electrical side because for 99% of the 3 years i have had my EFI it has run almost faultlessly but something has changed which has caused me to put on this post.I will definitely try a new plug but i have already changed it once -perhaps an iridium one will help?Thanks for the advice with the fuel filter which i think i shall leave well alone for now.My EFI is pampered in that i do not ride it in the wet -unless i get caught.It is kept in an insulated workshop and i don't ride it in the winter either.I do know that there are issues with the electrics which i think are down to the poor materials used so i understand that i should pull all the connectors apart and clean and spray them with WD40 or suchlike.Thanks for the replies to all posters.Another point : should i put some injector cleaner in the petrol as i sometimes do with my fuel injected cars?In days gone by i used to run some Redex through the carb to help clean them out.

[Norm]

Problem is Michael this is the way Fuel injected is, pump in the tank, and because of this the filter must be before the pump to protect the pump

[Thack]

Presto writes: "Some carbs are fitted with an ‘accelerator jet’, which sprays neat fuel into the induction tract to compensate. But I don’t think that the fuel injector is able to compensate in the same way. So you get the hesitancy and stuttering that you’ve reported."

That's an interesting argument, but couldn't you say that the injector itself does, indeed, "spray neat fuel into the induction tract". As far as I know, acceleration enrichment is provided by lengthening the injector pulse duration, which I think amounts to the same thing as the accelerator pump on a carburettor. Is that wrong, do you think? Always keen to learn something new.

[Gwilly]

At least the old accelerator pump was instant, i mean operate the cable and the thing squirted fuel, Wham bam..

EFI are reliant on electrical connections, resistances, signal pulses.. Never been as fast as cable in response..

If i slow my Alfa down to a junction in 4th gear the blasted electronics are trying to keep the engine revving at 1000rpm.

Dip the clutch and the rpm's soar to the stratosphere, such is the slow response of the electronic brain..

Double blip on the throttle as you change down fails to give any response to the sporty engine.. May as well not bother, just too quick for management to respond..

Anyway back to Martin, Yes def change the plug and a shot of redex type injector cleaner should do no harm and will make you feel that you've done at least something..

As Presto says must check any exposed wire connections for corrosion/poor continuity..

[Les]

It could be electrical possibly the supply to drive the fuel pump, may be just a dodgy connector you will need to check with a wiring diagram

[MartinB]

Update-managed to get the thing started on the electric starter after about 4 goes but get this:whereas before in the good old days when the leccy start was working properly I could use it without dipping the clutch-it will now mostly only start on the electric when the clutch lever is pulled in?I don't know whether these 2 problems are connected or not?Someone did suggest testing / cleaning and lubing the switches which are connected to the starter circuit on my other post and I admit that I haven't yet doe this.Anyway the engine continued to misfire on the way home -if anything getting worse but wouldn''t necessarily misfire when I tried to provoke it by giving it a handful.As soon as i got home the engine refused to tick over and I couldn't be bothered to look at it tonight.Going to use one of my other thumpers tomorrow!I agree it could be electrical or fuel based or both.I shall need to follow through the suggestions helpfully made by the various posters.Thanks again for these.I do wonder whether these bikes are now beginning to get too complicated for the home mechanic to easily investigate and fix?

[Norm]

Martin I think you are right, got complicated but still with Indian quality

[Frank]

If the problem with the electric start occurred at the same time as the misfire then logic would have it that the problems have a common cause. It is unlikely therefore to be a fuel issue or component failure but probably a wiring problem. Might be better to look at solving it from a different angle and fault the electric start side of things and in doing so you might find the misfire is cured also.

[MartinB]

FIXED IT!!!!!!!!!Have been going through various suggestions today (thanks for these).......On a test run this morning after disconnecting the side stand cut out switch when I thought I'd fixed it -I got stranded ,fortunately only half a mile from home and had to push it back!That made me sweat I can tell you!Anyway when checking the plug I noticed the HT lead was not making a proper connection to the plug cap.For good measure I changed the plug and cap for what I thought were good used ones virtually and re-made the connection and away she went.Have just returned from a 15 mile test and all is well.Thanks again for suggestions.

[Gwilly]

Way to go Martin, glad you found it.. As regards the starter prob it maybe a good idea to check the neutral switch and associated wiring connections, especially if the neutral light is affected at the same time as the no go..

On all the older bikes fitted with this switch it did provide the earth for the starter solenoid/relay and failure meant the clutch switch had to be activated to complete the circuit, as if the bike was in gear.. Chances are this wiring loom arrangement is still the same on the EFI.. Worth a look anyway..