Forum

[Alan R]

Ah, there you all are !!....I'm having to remove all these parts because it's a L/H change and the Primary case needs to move approx. 2" to clear the end of the gear change shaft whilst not damaging the enclosed o-ring as well.....The exhaust pipe clearance was less than that as was the footrest as well........................The chain is only split ( Not removed) to allow the socket and ratchet access to the head of the reverse-fitted bolt................In that first photo I've also removed the L/H - REAR engine mounting plate but it didn't improve things any, so ignore that particular action............................I collected this bike from a well-known bike dealer and shop in Cambridge last year with a brand new 12 month's MoT and rode it back to Shropshire, well almost as it spluttered to a halt some 20 miles from home and the familiar ( to us Enfield owners ) recovery truck saw me the rest of the way !!!.............. A quick diagnostic showed the battery to be flat along with one or more coils "open circuit" in the 3-phase alternator............I bought a spare battery and re-charged the old one and in that "mode" attended Madmike's Summer meeting............Further tests confirmed the "Open circuit" fault and this morning we found this little "problem" >>>>>>>>>>>

[John L]

Ooooer.....doesn't look too happy, does it ? Did the stator wiring and all the clutch innards fall out when you finally got the cover off ?

[Alan R]

Hi JOHN---------- no, I'd already cut the loom off and removed the clutch plates before it dawned on me that a photo or two might be a good idea............... there are 6 pairs plus 1 plain ( that's the first to be fitted )........ and they all have the SURFLEX mark on them and are virtually new !!...There are NO signs of notching on either the plates OR the clutch basket....Onwards with the dirty work now...............more later.

[Alan R]

UPDATE------------ OK, here's the culprit !!!.... This whole bike has been recently refurbished at some time ( Powder coated frame, engine blasted and re-built ) but I think I detect 2 different levels of ability ie}---2 people involved ...The rotor securing bolt had come loose allowing the rotor to rub on the stator which subsequently FRIED--BIG TIME !!!

[Gwilly]

Alan me ol mate, for my peace of mind let alone yours, rig up a dial gauge on the drive shaft and check for concentricity...

Integrity of the drive bearing as best you can.. Rotor nuts coming loose can as you righty say cause problems but usually stay square on the keyed shaft until enough wear takes place for the rotor to run off centre or indeed break up completely.. Trying not to be a voice of doom and i hope a new alt is all thats required.. Think i’m just saying check this DIY motor carefully.. regards gwilly.

[Alan R]

Hi GWILLY----------- spot-on matey, that's the next item on the "Must-do" list........ I'm awaiting some locking tools and extractors to remove all the bits then can give the whole of the casing insides a good clean and rig-up the DTI and see just what's what !!...........Fingers crossed.........will show photos probably end of next week..........

[Alan R]

----------- forgot to mention that these 750 motors had the same length of drive side crank shaft as the 650's so when Triumph fitted the Triplex chain the securing nut was extended to reach the threads.........When the nut comes loose the rotor already has an unsupported section such that it can "flap" about more so than the 650's where the shaft fits the full length of the rotor innards....................Remember this was at a time when Triumph were strapped for cash and probably didn't like the idea of designing/making a new driveshaft............??

[Gwilly]

ah i see, didn't know the 750 was thus modified, typical make do british industry mind set... thanks for the info.. Best of luck..

[John L]

Alan - One or two things don't look right here........ in the first pic. :- Is that a tabwasher I see behind the nut ? How can the nut come loose when it's tabbed ? ( I'd also expect to see a "full nut" condition with the end of the stud protruding beyond the outer face of the nut - or had it already loosened that much ? ) Parts book lists a shakeproof washer 21-7024 "fan disc lock washer" rather than a tabwasher, by the way ....... in the second pic :- Had you already removed the rotor drive key or was this destroyed by the loose rotor ?

[Alan R]

Hello JOHN L-------- Yes, you're quite right-- that is a tab washer that hadn't been located properly onto the crank and had thus come loose ( As you say, it should be a "Shakeproof washer")...The rotor drive key is still inside the rotor at this stage....................All new parts have now been ordered.................. I'm awaiting the delivery of Clutch locking tool ( I don't have some old plates to weld together ) and the clutch hub puller tool ...I best check the security/tooth No.of the G'box output sprocket whilst I'm here.............. more pics. as soon as I can..