Forum

[Frank]

From the mechanism as I understand it I can't see much point in backing the adjustment screw off. Surely all that will happen is that as soon as you start taking up the slack in the cable the actuating arm will be pulled and the screw clearance will be taken up anyway, so you will be back at square one. In which case the arm will have moved through some of it's travel leaving less available when the lever is pulled. It might therefore make things worse.

[Alex.]

Have a look at my Twang posting, there is a bit of info there too - I had the same symptoms on my 2005 Electra X over the past month or two and it was the cable going, it eventually snapped. Replacement of the cable has removed all the problems, changes smoothly, finds neutral easily and I didn't have any fancy adjusting to do.

Don't panic until you check the cable - mine went at the gearbox end which seems most common, so start with removing the hex level plug and look in to see the cable and arm - is the cable frayed? That's where mine went anyway....

[Lee B]

Clutch cable snapped this afternoon!!! It was frayed to hell on the 'unseen side' - didn't spot it.
Hopefully routing a new one through will not prove too problematic but at first glance looks tricky.
Cheers for the advice everyone.

[Lee B]

Any tips for routing the new cable?
Do you need to remove the fuel tank? I'm not sure whether i can feed the cable through.
Thought i'd ask before tackling tomorrow afternoon.

[PeteF]

You could pull the new one through with the old one but it's likely to be strapped to the frame under the tank. Tank comes off pretty easily though - fuel pipe off, to bolts undone and you're there.

[Kmac]

Take the tank off Lee. Two bolts and the engine steady and its done.
You will find it much easier!
You must be just around the corner from me.
If you can leave it until Thursday I will give you some help.
Ring 07780 525377

[Norm]

As long as nobody starts blaming Indian cables for the problem, the cables are fine, the problem lies in the lever action in the box or if it breaks at the handlebar end it is because the nipple is unable to pivot, either no lube or the nipple not free to float, which is also the problem in the box with the cable being forced to flex because the nipple is unable to float

[Alex.]

Due to the possibility of further replacements I have routed my cable via the headlamp casquette, around the front of the head of the frame to the right side of the tank, below the tank and frame (located without removing the tank - there is a cable "hook" on the underside of the frame which my cable runs through quote comfortably), then it runds across the top of the airfilter box (again located without removing tank or seat) and round behind the toolbox to run smoothly into the gearbox. I hope that gives a reasonable picture, and as I say this will allow easy removal and replacement, a smooth route and is still concealed from the right hand side view......

[Lee B]

Done it. Thanks for the offer KMAC. Hasn't solved my problem though. Playing with adjustment all afternoon.
Still drags slightly and now lost compression in the kick start but can start on ES. (weird).
Clutch investigation next!! Oh the Joys of enfield ownership. But i did buy this to expand my mechanical knowledge.
(Just didn't expect to learn so much so quickly - oh boy)!!

[Lee B]

Stripped cleaned. Added new clutch pad (with bearings). Seems previous owner has fitted the 5 plate clutch conversion. I have tensions the clutch springs as i found them. But is there any advice on this? Any recommendations on how tight/loose they should be?