Forum

[Wheaters]

Only time I’ve had a problem was when I dropped the bike onto a grassy bank on the right side of the trials section and my leg was against the pipe ; it did melt my waterproofs a bit! Otherwise there’s about three inches of clearance. I might buy a metal heat shield from Mr H.

I’m not a fan of wrapping pipes after I had an issue with trapped road salt rotting through an expensive four into one manifold I’d had made for my trials car after only one winter. I had a replacement stainless exhaust made by an expert friend of mine and he told me off and said that trapping heat in the pipe with wrapping can also make the steel go brittle. He guarantees his own exhausts for life but won’t if they’re wrapped! He is very well known in the vintage and classic car circles (he also made the exhaust stubs for Rolls Royce’s own Spitfire). He has been making his living doing this sort of thing for fifty years so I take notice of what he advises.

[McMurdo]

Hi Stinkwheel, I think I have the same high-level exhaust as you. I got our hosts standard heat shield (91043) which is round and flattened it slightly. It also needed longer jubilee clips to fit. The end result fits well and, as a bonus, covers up the rusty exhaust as well

[stinkwheel]

I've got one of the heat shioelds... and a pair of rusty jubilee clips to go with it.

The trick with wrap is to give it a good dousing in silicone spray periodically, then it repells water.

[Wheaters]

I decided the bike wasn't quite finished...

Having painted the aforementioned 42 tooth rear sprocket I decided I might as well swap it for the existing 46 tooth one.
The chain needed two links removing to get enough adjustment, as it was it was right at the end of the swinging arm. Sod's law, the standard one from the 4 speed box (when the bike had the standard 16T / 38T gearing) was just slightly too short to reach. Anyway, it now has 18T / 42T gearing, which is just about the same overall ratio as standard.

While the wheel was out I decided to remove, rub down and re-paint the rather rusty chainguard. Some etch primer then satin black. I left that to dry overnight and re-fitted it this morning.

Next I looked again at the "sticky" gear lever on the new 5 speed box. There has been an ongoing issue of the lever not returning up to centre under the influence of the internal return spring after down changes, so it was sometimes difficult to go below 3rd. It always changed down 5th-4th-3rd without any problems, just seems to be temperamental and often hangs up in 3rd, which needs some nifty footwork at junctions. A new internal return spring made no difference.

Anyway, after bit of design work/engineering bodgery the lever now also has an external "stretch" spring helping to pull it up. I'll have to wait a while to see if this has cured the problem. If not, it can easily be removed.

Final job of today was to remove the original front of indicators and replace them with the smaller diameter ones I've had in the spares drawer since last autumn, as per the matching smaller ones already on the rear of the bike. The new set had smaller diameter bullet connectors so they wouldn't work with the existing barrel connectors on the bike harness (yes, of course the ones in my wiring spares box were too big). So I cut off half the wires of old and new, and grafted the old onto the new, with suitable shrink fit insulation over the soldered splice joints. Now they fit.

A crushing blow of the "lockdown" is that I had to drain a gallon of petrol out of the bike to go in the lawnmower!

[Wheaters]

Gear lever assist spring:

New indicator:

[John G]

I use some heavy wire sort of thing you would use for main power or earth leads

I use a nylon cable tie, which I attach to the spring. I then use a large screwdriver with its tip resting on a frame member to lever the spring to a position where I can slip the spring eye on to its mounting point. Once the spring is correctly located I use a side cutting pliers to snip the cable tie. Saves a lot of hassle, cursing, skinned knuckles, etc.

[Antonio Schmidt]

I'm keeping myself busy tinkering my 1969 MKII INTERCEPTOR.

[Daiwiskers]

Decided the odd fork legs would look better as a pair, so bought used set of forks rebuilt them then fitted them, while front wheel was out decided to replace wheel bearings, that led to new seals washers and spacers,
Refitted front wheel. I had a spare 389 monobloc so that was stripped cleaned rebuilt with new jets and needle also fitted the choke slide that I had knocking around, fitted that
Then decided to have a look at the wiring I rewired a couple of years ago with cheap wire it never let me down but I was losing voltage to the coil, of course with time on my hands that led to a rewire again but this time with awg14 for everything but the ignition switch to fuse box, battery to ammeter, and ammeter to ignition switch, and battery to earth, for these I used awg10 result 12.7at battery 12.6 at coil.
Today I replaced the oil filter the quil cork and refilled with oil
Stripped and lubed the advance retard unit reset the timing
You know what 2nd kick it started and settled to a slightly fast tick over
Result eh Dai

Almost forgot to mention i have recovered the front seat I have a cover for the pillion that will be fitted sometime.
Sprayed the front mudguard
I WANT TO GO OUT LET ME OUT I CAN'T AFFORD TO STAY HOME ANY LONGER

[windmill john]

Decided the odd fork legs would look better as a pair, so bought used set of forks rebuilt them then fitted them, while front wheel was out decided to replace wheel bearings, that led to new seals washers and spacers,
Refitted front wheel. I had a spare 389 monobloc so that was stripped cleaned rebuilt with new jets and needle also fitted the choke slide that I had knocking around, fitted that
Then decided to have a look at the wiring I rewired a couple of years ago with cheap wire it never let me down but I was losing voltage to the coil, of course with time on my hands that led to a rewire again but this time with awg14 for everything but the ignition switch to fuse box, battery to ammeter, and ammeter to ignition switch, and battery to earth, for these I used awg10 result 12.7at battery 12.6 at coil.
Today I replaced the oil filter the quil cork and refilled with oil
Stripped and lubed the advance retard unit reset the timing
You know what 2nd kick it started and settled to a slightly fast tick over
Result eh Dai

Almost forgot to mention i have recovered the front seat I have a cover for the pillion that will be fitted sometime.
Sprayed the front mudguard
I WANT TO GO OUT LET ME OUT I CAN'T AFFORD TO STAY HOME ANY LONGER

You know... I had this broom 40 years... it’s had some new brushes and I’ve replaced the handle a few times, but it’s the same one

[Daiwiskers]

You know... I had this broom 40 years... it’s had some new brushes and I’ve replaced the handle a few times, but it’s the same one
[/quote]


Spot on It's a proper mongrel
It started life as a Indian Army bike in 1962 Then after a few years it was in private use in India
Then apparently it was bought by a fella who was running Indian motorcycle tours he brought it back to the UK it was then bought by a fella who wanted to get involved with the vmcc but after 50+ years of bodging and original bits being replaced with anything that would fit it wasn't the bike for that so it was handed to a dealer to sell
My lovely Mrs bought it as a present for my 60th birthday (bless her)
The engine was running (just) the bottom end was shot the top end was shot the electrics were shot the clutch was shot the tyres were shot brake were shot it even had Suzuki shoes in the rear (you get the picture)
As the bottom end wasn't something I could do myself it went off to Paul (bullet whisperer) and had the full asbo treatment (thanks Paul)
Cosmetically all that has changed is that it now has trials bars and upswept tulip megaphone and a 389 monobloc and the 2000ish forks fitted, and seat cover but we can't count that
I do have a picture of it how it was when my Mrs bought it but it was from the advert so I don't know if it will work here