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[jefrs]

I'll take you word for it I'm so not taking a tyre off to find out. I'm not surprised, however spoke holes are usually covered with a gusset seal thingy when fitting tubeless rubber. Push bicycles can have tubeless tyres filled to 100psi and not leak through the spokes. It is possible.

[Rattlebattle]

No need to take the tyre off on mine;the valve is clearly a tubed type. It wouldn't seal as a tubeless valve, on which you don't usually get a security ring unless it's a fancy valve attached to a cast wheel "spoke" ie at 90 degrees to the rim.

[pd110961]

just checked the fuel economy for the first time.. 335 miles on her now, and still 'running in'. averaged 66mpg. not too shabby, but with similar journeys on the 2006 model I just sold, I squeezed 100mpg and averaged about 73

[jefrs]

PD- you're almost run-in now, you should be able to feel it all loosening up nicely, emphasis on nicely. Mine did go through a phase of about a week around 400+miles when it noticeably loosened up a lot and settled down. Annoying vibration should all but disappear, you'll still feel the motor thump but hands should stop tingling and be able to see stuff in the mirror. Do check chain tension. Fuel economy will improve. When you're able to open it up you'll feel her extra power. Enjoy the bike. Merry Christmas, Jeff.

[Rattlebattle]

I don't think at 335 miles the engine can be considered as almost run in. RE themselves specify 600 miles (1000km) before full throttle should be used. My engine was still pretty tight at 300 miles when I did the first service. I've done about 950 miles and the motor still is not fully run in. It loosened up noticeably at around 800 miles. I don't believe one can generalise about how long it takes an individual engine of this type to run in; so much depends on the actual tolerances of the particular engine, how well it was put together and how religiously the recommended running in speeds have been followed.

[ric]

My engine was still improving with 10 times that mileage on the clock! If it's a keeper why rush the most important part of ownership? An engine should only get run in once.

[jefrs]

Rattlebattle, yes these engines are individuals, no argument there, and not really my point. Yours appears to have needed twice the distance mine did yet you too noticed it going through a loosening up phase. I appear to have got a greater mileage quicker by taking it for longer runs pottering on country lanes; varying the throttle and gradually increasing use of power since 600-700 miles - but only because I could feel it had freed up. I got it end of August and have well over 1000 miles on the clock, no huge mileage but the nights are drawing out now

My point if there was one, is the harsh vibration goes away and fuel consumption improves. One might also notice that the motor runs less hot so you can fondle the rocker covers, no! not the exhaust!

That does show that the new big oil pump is effective; the motor is essentially air-cooled and oil-cooled, if you sit at the lights too long you will feel the crankcase getting hot on your boot. The cylinder and head fins are basically the oil-cooler.

Of course as the motor is run-in one can use more power, and it is very musical so it is essential to drop two cogs when going through a bridge tunnel (SI 1995 No.2370); finding the extra power of the run-in motor is fun but does not improve fuel consumption

[Rattlebattle]

Like Ric I'm in no hurry to run in the engine; as he says you only get one chance (like making a first impression....). FWIW I have followed exactly the same process as you Jefrs. The fact that mine has taken longer to run in is probably down to it being a bit tighter - who knows? Anyway, we're not saying anything different really. I'm definitely going to raise the gearing by changing to a 19 tooth gearbox sprocket though, roughly 6% higher. Next year I'm riding to Belgium with some friends who will be on British 650 twins and similar. Unfortunately the only realsitic way to get to Dover for the ferry or Folkestone for the train is by motorway. As the one with the slowest bike I'll probably lead, but I don't want the others to fall asleep so it'll be better for all concerned if I raise the gearing, which for the UK is simply too low IMHO though I guess it depends on the point at which the heavier vibrations kick in. A 20 tooth sprocket is too high for my bike as I'm in a very small minority who actually is satisfied with the standard exhaust and ignition set-up and I believe that, as standard, the gearing would kill the performance too much (if performance is the right word - my modern bike makes 130bhp at the crank). Mine C5 exhaust sounds quite "fruity". As a matt black LE exhaust it might be different to the usual chrome one, but I doubt it. All a bit subjective really.

[jefrs]

Rattlebattle, I chased down and caught a very nice refurbed Commando caff racer (maybe a Dommie which were lighter and quicker) and exchanged pleasantries Despite featherbed frames they never went around real corners to my liking, wheelbase too long. Back in the day mate 'S' would easily pass one on his ex-racing 125 Benley (he was probably mad as a brush but he could ride).

So yes, an EFi will keep up with a 650. Being nitpicky the 19T/18T conversion )me too when I get a tuit) is 19/18 x 100% = 105.5555% or +5.5555% so yeah 6% more or less, excepting my back of beer mat calc (guesstimate) is at red line limiter not peak power; theoretical top speed is never near realistic but the extra 19T cog should make motorway fast-cruise easier, not the normal 65mph thumping cruise (dunno why I need to say that). Despite the rev limiter the new EFi seems to have a squeeze more power and a little bit quicker at lowish revs without stressing the motor (70 seems to be 4200rpm, max torque, start of power band).



As it happens Wales is nearer than Dover, I wouldn't like to haul on the motorways for that distance at 75. Even big sports bikes don't like motorways, mainly because they're so boring. Two hundred, four hundred six hundred, eight hundred miles on the motorway is boring in the car too, been there.. Next time we go that distance on holiday, don't forget luggage and dog, I think I'll get a trailer for the bike.

[jefrs]

Rattlebattle, I found the standard set up to be rough and lumpy, especially over-run and pickup hence fitting the PCv, not really for more power.

Where it comes to power I've had sports cars that can out perform the average road going superbike, seriously such cars can corner at 70 where a bike will visit the scenery. The Merc (don't buy a new one) was an AMG, went like hot snot, tilted into corners. The current 2.2 turbo-diesel SUV I had a 'Stage 1' done on it's so well in excess of 250bhp and more torque than a big V8. But it's around two and a half tonnes so the RE does get away quicker. Top speed and fast-cruise is another matter; the big car is used to haul stuff, junk and adult passengers.

If I wanted a fast road bike I would have got one. I wanted a bike for rough and ready country lanes, something less ordinary.