- Fri Sep 27, 2019 5:47 pm
#85627
Just at the "shooting at the breeze" stage at the moment but like Wheaters, I fancy doing some light reliability trials work with my 350 bullet.
It's in the process of being rebuilt following an engine failure and the frame is currently at the shotblasters so now would be a good time to do any mods if they need doing.
I've been looking at "proper" trials machines and most of them seem to have footpegs welded to the frame just behind the gearbox. Like this:
Now it occurrs to me that if I were to flip and switch the pillion peg mounts, I could achieve a very similar peg position, with folding pegs, without any major alterations or engineering. They could also be folded up out of the way, this would in fact allow the standard, ridgid pegs to be left in place for normal road use and removed for an event.
I did a quick mockup of what I'm talking about on my 612 bullet (it could go both higher or lower from there).
I suppose the question there is how secure will they be. Are they going to rotate if one were to be standing up on them a lot, will the taper fit get a good enough hold? Maybe someone else has tried this already because it seem such a simple idea if it'll work? *
The other question is about foot controls. It seems that most leave the gearshift in a roughly standard position, maybe moved up out of the way a little and pick a gear to do the stage in. But what about the brake? I found the following picture and it looks like they've moved the brake arm 180 degrees and bent a pull-rod round the outside of the shock but what about that lever? Is that something you can buy? A homebrewed effort? A bastardised standard lever?
It occurrs to me that I could potentially make a pivot point to fit where the stud for the lower rear subframe attaches then fabricate a shorty brake lever (cut down a standard one?) to attach to it. Maybe there is a "known" way of doing this kind of thing?
I'm also going to beef-up the saddle mounting point on the top tube but this should just be a case of welding a heavier bit of mild steel channel on top.
Comments/ridicule welcome.
*People used to do something similar on their 125s when I was younger as "poor mans rearsets" . Using the pillion pegs as the main ones and flipping the gear lever to face backwards giving racing shift into the bargain.
It's in the process of being rebuilt following an engine failure and the frame is currently at the shotblasters so now would be a good time to do any mods if they need doing.
I've been looking at "proper" trials machines and most of them seem to have footpegs welded to the frame just behind the gearbox. Like this:
Now it occurrs to me that if I were to flip and switch the pillion peg mounts, I could achieve a very similar peg position, with folding pegs, without any major alterations or engineering. They could also be folded up out of the way, this would in fact allow the standard, ridgid pegs to be left in place for normal road use and removed for an event.
I did a quick mockup of what I'm talking about on my 612 bullet (it could go both higher or lower from there).
I suppose the question there is how secure will they be. Are they going to rotate if one were to be standing up on them a lot, will the taper fit get a good enough hold? Maybe someone else has tried this already because it seem such a simple idea if it'll work? *
The other question is about foot controls. It seems that most leave the gearshift in a roughly standard position, maybe moved up out of the way a little and pick a gear to do the stage in. But what about the brake? I found the following picture and it looks like they've moved the brake arm 180 degrees and bent a pull-rod round the outside of the shock but what about that lever? Is that something you can buy? A homebrewed effort? A bastardised standard lever?
It occurrs to me that I could potentially make a pivot point to fit where the stud for the lower rear subframe attaches then fabricate a shorty brake lever (cut down a standard one?) to attach to it. Maybe there is a "known" way of doing this kind of thing?
I'm also going to beef-up the saddle mounting point on the top tube but this should just be a case of welding a heavier bit of mild steel channel on top.
Comments/ridicule welcome.
*People used to do something similar on their 125s when I was younger as "poor mans rearsets" . Using the pillion pegs as the main ones and flipping the gear lever to face backwards giving racing shift into the bargain.
