Forum

[steveW]

Trying to get the disk brake to work on my 2007Electra X. Lever just keeps levering with no pressure building up. I need to strip the whole thing down to investigate, so Im looking at using a few copper washers for the hose connections. I dont want to order them from our host until Ive got it working as I anticipate gping through a few in the re building !

1st, any suggestions beyond the regular bleeding process, which had failed so far and
2nd anyone know the internal andexternal diameters of the washers. Ive tried measuring but believe it needs more accurate measure than a bnq tape! Cheers,
Steve

[Daiwiskers]

I will try to help here
Bleeding stubborn brakes I usually resort to a large syringe to push fluid up from the caliper via the bleed nipple this way the air gets pushed up with the fluid not pushed back and forth by the master cylinder
As for copper washers I buy assorted sets on line very cheap but take care and be willing to aneal them and throw out any damaged ones
You could also use aluminum washers for the job
I have not had much luck with Doughty washers the brake fluid seems to attack the rubber on them
Sorry can't help you with the sizes but you could probably get 2 assorted sets for £10 one metric one imperial
Hope that helps Dai

[Wheaters]

I can’t help directly because I don’t have that type of bike but if you are going to do more work on it I suggest you consider buying a digital caliper. They are available online for about £20. Once you have one you will wonder how you ever managed without .

[Wheaters]

BTW, I meant a measuring caliper, not a new type of brake caliper.....

[papasmurf]

If it isn't pumping the master cylinder need new seals or replacing.

[Wheaters]

I’ve had similar problems with my CB750. Iirc, I resorted to removing the caliper and holding it as high as I could to allow the air to rise away from the master cylinder. The reverse bleeding method is more straightforward if it works...it might not, depending on the design. It’s also possible to buy a suction device to draw the air through the system rather than having to pump the brake lever.

[stinkwheel]

'07 electra x will be a pricol calliper.

Is it failing to build pressure after draining the fluid/maintainance or has it stopped working by itself?

In any case, if it stopped working by itself, you probably need to take a look at the master cylinder and identify any leaks, blockages and/or replace the seal.

If it's just struggling with bleeding, I find they'll often airlock right at the top. Try bleeding it at the top banjo bolt as if you were using a bleed nipple. You'll need to wrap a cloth round to absorb any fluid, two pumps then crack the bolt during the third pull. You should get bubbly fluid coming out followed by clear fluid. If nothing is coming out, the master cyclinder needs stripping and cleaning, possibly seals replacing. Once that's bled, move onto the calliper.

In fairness, I got my pricol 90% bled (certainly up to pressure) by leaving the calliper hanging down off the hose (so a vertical run from the calliper to the M/C like Wheatears describes) then opening the bleed nipple and leaving it. Gravity did the rest. Then bled the last bit of air out in the conventional fashion.

What I did find with mine (which I bought second hand from an early electra X) was that the brake fluid had clearly never been changed and had crystalised inside the M/C and calliper. There were heavy deposits on the inside of the calliper seals and most of the master cylinder. I used a different M/C in the end but the callipers needed a really good clean out. The M/C would have needed similar. I also had to replace the piston seals and scrape a fairly large amount of alloy corrosion/crystalised fluid out from the area behind the seals. The seals themselves had gone hard and lumpy.

The banjo bolts are M10 (can't remember which pitch) but M10 copper washers are the order of the day. Buy a big bag, they are cheap and you'll have them on the shelf for if you need them again. Most Jap bikes take the same size.

[steveW]

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate the input. Ive tried the syringe reverse method, raised the caliper above the master and left the bleed nipple open overnight. I will try the M/C banjo bleed, hadnt thought of that.
Im afraid to admit that the brake fluid hasnt been changed for years, so noone to blame but myself. In fact when I came to strip the original pricol caliper only one pin would come out, the other is so corroded in that the allen head rounded off! So I got a second hand one. Prior to this pressure was very good, now nothing.

I think it might be a complete strip down of everything...but need to pump the cylinders out first! Once again, many thanks, Steve

[Daiwiskers]

One last thing that I can think to try is connect it all back together then tie the lever almost back to the bars and leave overnight
But big BUT as you say it hasn't been touched for years strip the lot down and replace anything that looks less than perfect
At the end of the day don't take chances with brakes
You know it makes sense Dai

[stinkwheel]

In a case of total failure to gain pressure for pistone removal, you can pump pistons out using a grease gun on the bleed nipple hole. They are capable of producing an enormous pressure.