This Forum is now CLOSED use the link to get more details viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13924#p102587
User avatar
By windmill john
#84901
Okay okay, the answer is out there, 7000 YouTube videos etc...... 64 years on!

Still..... ;)

Only had my Bullet a few days, but I have a question..

Mine is 2006, but I understand most likely a 2004. Kickstart four speed.

Query, I do not have a decompressor (separate question, was it removed? Did some not have one?)

Okay, general consensus is, wait for ammeter deflection to minus (my feeling minus because points closed, current being pulled.

But.... previous owner has fitted electronic ignition. Some places say you can’t use the ammeter deviation with electronic ignition.

So, how do I start my bike?

Best I have found is to bring it to what I think is Just before TDC, listening to intake suction, ammeter on minus and kick.
Generally this is working best for me, rather than waiting for ammeter to go to zero.

Sometimes it has taken a few kicks, but sometimes first kick.

Any feelings? thanks.


John
User avatar
By stinkwheel
#84905
They'd normally have a cable operated decompressor valve in the same position as the sparkplug but on the right hand side of the cylinder head. It's possible to either fit a second plug in its place or to blank it off.

If you take it up to compression then ease it over and carry on a touch more (maybe half an inch of movement on the kickstart), it'll feel like the engine has settled into a "notch". (I think this is the piston easing past the compression point). I take it to there, let the kickstart back up to the top and give it a swing over. It'll generally fire up from there. When fitted with points, the ammeter deflection you're looking for usually happens just after TDC at around the same point.

Getting it over compression with no decompressor and without taking a swing at it might be trickier, depends how good your clutch is.

This is how I start my 612 bullet which also has an electronic ignition although I do have a decompressor.
User avatar
By windmill john
#84917
Thanks Whisperer, early days for me.
Previous owner had fitted electronic ignition and also an Amal monobloc carb, so not strictly standard.

I haven’t quite worked out if I can get away without tweaking the throttle a tad also. I found I’ve needed to.

Still, only three days in. I went for a 28 mile round trip yesterday, all good. Far fewer false neutrals now I’ve adjusted the clutch cable. My only concern (read embarrassment) would be if I stopped at the level crossing and struggled starting. Not bothered anywhere else, just wouldn’t want to hold people up if I were at the front of the queue. Once I have the technique, I’ll be more than happy.

John
User avatar
By stinkwheel
#84923
Mine likes a tiny little touch of throttle to start. Just enough to take up the slack in the cable.

A top tip I often give learner riders who tend to get flustered if they stall is to get off the bike and push it to the side of the road. The main reason for doing this is it indicates to following traffic that all is not as it should be. Most car drivers are a ball of pent up rage and frustration, do not have a good understanding of bikes and think you're being inattentive or for some reason trying to wind them up. As soon as you get off the bike, they know something is up.

Especially with how long the starting drill can take with a bullet following a stall, you can land up feeling pressured, then you fluff it and take even longer. Following traffic revs their engines, sounds their horn then finally squeezes past you with much revving and pointing of fingers with inches to spare. Getting off the bike, moving to the side of the road then sorting yourself out is safer and calmer all round.
User avatar
By windmill john
#84928
Thanks both.

I once had a DR600 Suzuki which stalled more often than ran. I do recall jumping up and down on the kickstart in the right hand lane of a dual carriageway at a roundabout..... embarrassing, sweat creating, angry making pile of ......

Shop for accessories at Hitchcocks Motorcycles