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#84717
Wheaters wrote:
Sun Aug 11, 2019 4:09 pm
What are you using as a lubricant when fitting the tyre? If it remains slippery, rather than drying off, it can cause a problem.

I use liquid hand soap and water, or window cleaning spray because I can never remember to put proper tyre fitting soap on my shopping list.
This is very relevant. I've used washing up liquid before for one that was refusing to go up onto the rim but I always then wash it off again with warm water before the final inflation because it is well known to be "too slippy" and risks the tyre spinning on the rim if left.

I normally use a bar of old fashioned green hand soap applied with a damp paintbrush for tyre fitting.

Do also check the beads are properly mounted though. Even if someone else did them. There is a small ridge all the way round the tyre on both sides, this should appear an equal distance from the rim all the way round when it's properly seated. A lot of tyre shops aren't used to tubed tyres these days and assume if it's blown up, it's ok.

As I say. I've seen me have to put 100psi with the valve core out into a rear tyre to get the bead properly seated on a 350 bullet before today. If the bead isn't properly seated, there is a high risk the tyre will rotate on the rim.
#84720
Workshop manual says, 32PSI front 36 PSI rear. Try a radial tyre like a Michelin, they are more stable. A bias ply on the front won`t affect handling, although racers use radials on both wheels. I never had a puncture in all the years of riding motorcycles. I had a Michelin on the rear wheel of the BSA Golden Flash. People used to look at that tyre more than the bike.

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