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[Zelda]

Great! Thanks Adrian and Scalyback for the diagram.

I'm just working on the diagram now. For the extra red wire for additional earth leads from the stop/tail lamp and the headlamp relector unit back to the battery, where should they be connected? Negative terminal on the battery?

[stinkwheel]

For what it's worth, I generally take earths to the frame AND the battery (eventually) kind of like a daisy-chain of earth leads. So only one cable actually attaches the battery to the frame but all the earths lead back to it.

If I was going to take an earth all the way back from the taillight, I'd attach it to the same frame earth the battery connects to using a ring terminal rather than directly attaching it to the battery itself. It's neater to just have the one connector to the battery.

So. Here's my main frame earth, one of the wires goes to the battery box, one goes to the front of the bike, the other goes to the back of the bike.


The one going to the front takes a pause near the coil to ensure that is properly earthed before carrying on up to the headlamp. (this shows the "daisy chain" nicely. It can follow the wire OR the frame).


Here's that one coming into the casquestte with two, double bullet connectors giving me 4, hardwired earth connections. I generally put up to two cables in a connector without worrying too much, so that gives me 8 earths.

[Zelda]

Hi Stinkwheel, that looks like a good idea, I will do the same.

Here are the two wiring digrams i've roughly worked on according to Adrians instruction. Apologies for the lack of colour. Do they make sense to you?

[Adrian]

Stinkwheel's pictures show the sort of thing I was on about. You're right in drawing all those extra earth wires RED and therefore run to the battery's positive terminal, most bike electrics of that period were positive earth. Stinkwheel's extra earth leads, being black, suggest that he's using a negative earth system, which is pretty universal on more modern bikes and cars.

Your hand drawn diagram hasn't got the lighting switch connections correct.

Terminal no.2 is to the dip switch, 3 is the live 12V feed from the ammeter, 4 is for the pilot lights and 5 is for the tail and speedo lights.

Getting there!

A.

[Zelda]

Yes that light switch was my mistake, I was thinking of what is currently in the bike and may have given me so many issues as it only has 3 terminals!

So, lightswitch to be ammended in diagram with the correct lucas replacement (7 terminals)

Remaining for the shopping list;

1. 12v regulator rectifier (Rex's speed shop)
2. 12v battery (MOTOBATT MB9U AGM BATTERY)
3. Lucas light switch
4. Wiring loom (10 CORE AUTO CABLE 1.0mm 16.5 AMP)

What would you suggest for the fuse, 10 or 15 amp?

Then I think we are ready for assembly?

[Adrian]

Another look at Stinkwheel's photos shows he's using heat-shrink sleeving, not a bad idea to get some of that too.

15A fuse - I suggest the blade type, as any car accessory shop/filling station should sell them, though our hosts have them cheaply enough for packs of ten. They also have the smaller bullet connectors (don't forget to buy the insulators to go with them) and heat shrink sleeves, any wiring bits not available on this site can probably be bought from any of these suppliers:

https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/home

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/

http://www.ebaystores.co.uk/towzatronics

Lastly, if you haven't already done so treat yourself to a decent set of terminal crimp pliers/wire strippers to suit the non-insulated connectors.

A.

[Zelda]

Dear Adrien and Stinkwheel,

Thanks so much for the support on this. All ordered now so will start the re-wire in the coming weeks! I will keep you updated with the success of it

Thanks again

[ShaunE]

Hello all,

Newbie to this forum having just bought a ‘59 Super Meteor last Tuesday.

The old girl’s a bit tired and would you believe has just the same problems as Zelda’s bike! No charge. The stator looks to be original and is kaput. Broken wires next to windings, virtually no output. I’m going down the same route as Zelda, converting to 12 v with a rect/reg. Have ordered new stator, rotor (as mine was a 70mm one) and rect/reg.

Because the bike needs a rewire (bodgery everywhere) I was working on a new diagram using a simplified BSA A65 diagram as a guide. Thanks to your good selves and Zelda I’m going to use his one using the correct colours as best I can.

A strange one though, mine is coil ign with distributor but doesn’t have an ignition switch on the side panel. The panels are I’m sure original and don’t have the recess for the switch. Could it be that the bike was originally fitted with a magneto and someone has sometime in the past replaced it with a distributor? To get round this a simple toggle switch has been fitted.

Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Cheers.........Shaun.

[Adrian]

Could it be that the bike was originally fitted with a magneto and someone has sometime in the past replaced it with a distributor? To get round this a simple toggle switch has been fitted.

A definite possibility. You can either refit a magneto, our hosts have one complete with A/R mechanism, look for USED 1067 in used parts,



or (cheaper!) buy a switch type side panel, pt. no. 43298:



A.

[ShaunE]

Hi Adrian, thanks for your reply.

Probably can’t justify almost £400 with postage for a mag so may well go down the new panel route!

Cheers........Shaun.