Forum

[Andy C]

Pete.

Running the bike briefly up to the redline during running I would say is a no.

What is probably most important is not to make the engine labour - keep it spinning nice and freely, when you come to a hill change down. Also dont rev it hard.

I bought a new Himalayan a few months ago and the dealer recommendation was pretty much what I said above.

As you put more miles on the bike you can slowley increase the amount of revs & speed - the key is to progressivley increate the revs as you put more miles on the bike and not all of a sudden use max revs when you reach the end of the running in period.

On the silencer front, I also have a 612 Bullet wichh I run with a Goldie pipe - the bike runs at its best with no baffle, but it is loud, so I try and keep revs / throttle opening down in built up areas, I also ride with earplugs at all times.

[Chris H.]

I think the Redline bit was taken out of context from this article:
How to run-in any Royal Enfield EFI –
I have been asked to put something in the files section.
This is advice.
Jeff Slade 27/11/2018
Read the Owner's Manual and follow the Running In instructions.
The maximum speeds given in it are a little slow for the EFI-500 so I've revised them.
The EFI do not much like going below 2000rpm in top especially when new, that is
33mph.
They are happier above 2500rpm, which is 41mph in top.
There are three phases
Phase 1 (0-300 miles) - limit to half throttle, use very gently to 45mph. Stop to let the
motor cool down after every hour of riding.
Phase 2 (300-600 miles) - limit to 3/4 throttle and 60mph. Vary the throttle.
Phase 3 (600 miles and beyond) - Avoid prolonged use of full throttle. Turning that
around it means occasionally use full throttle.
As the engine loosens up, from maybe 1000-1200 miles gradually increase the revs to
point of vibration by changing up later and later through the gears i.e. in 3, 4, & 5. In
1st and 2nd it is rather too easy to over-rev.
Do not force it through the vibration but change up. Work needs to be put into the
engine to bed it in so only under power not on the over run by changing down.
It should be a gradual process not a violent one, not 'breaking in'. The vibration point
gradually moves up the rev band and dissipates. The engine should now rev freely and
willingly to the limiter. The engine now develops more power and torque, the power
band extends wider with more power at the top end and more usable torque develops
at the bottom end.
The stock rev limiter is 5400-5500rpm. The blood line from a conservative maximum
piston speed for ‘road’ use is about 6800rpm. I do have a MMB tach.
When run in, the power band is supposed to be roughly 4000-5300rpm
The gearing on all the EFI, Bullet, Classic and CGT are roughly the same (mph per
1000rpm)
1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th
5.4 8.2 10.9 13.6 16.52
Without a tacho, or even with one, it is done by feel – you accelerate hard to the
vibration point and then change up. You cannot over-rev the engine, the limiter won’t
let you.

I have just bought my first Royal Enfield.
It's a C5 2018 Classic 500 Chrome with only 137 miles on the clock. I also own a Honda CB1300 and a Honda C90.
I had it from Thunderroad Cwmbran, South Wales and it came with the first ssrvice done as the bike is now 14 months old.
I never ride my bikes in the wet or through the winter and this will be cherished and kept in mint condition.
I have already used a polishing mop and compound on the side casings and they've started to come up to a mirror finish.
Any thoughts on "Running In"?
I have read that vibration issues can be "solved" by briefly taking the bike up to the redline for a couple of seconds occasionaly in these very early stages, whuch contradicts the manufacturer's recommendations. Anyone tried it? I think it was one of the Paul Grocock youfube video where I first saw it.
I'm also considering a smaller exhaust. By all accounts the standard is heavy and doesn't sound as great. Any recommendations?
Thank you. The bike looks stunning.