User avatar
By Davedup
#83246
Hi folks, I've always found my twin sided single leading shoe front brake pretty poor.
I've fitted new shoes from out hosts, have read a lot on here about set up and still not happy (it's terrible!)
Pulled the front wheel today to look at the pads and see how they are wearing.
You can see that it looks like the pads are only contacting along their outside edge. I took the glaze off the new shoes and it still shows where I did that on much of the shoes "polished" where they are meeting the drum.
Has anyone any ideas? Are the hubs in need of a skim?
Will add fourth photo on next post
Thanks
Attachments
IMG_2897.JPG
Left side 1
IMG_2896.JPG
Right side 2
IMG_2895.JPG
Right side 1
By Beezabryan
#83248
That is a lumpy lining problem.
Needs the lining/ shoes made concentric with the drum. I did it by sticking strips of emery paper inside the drum, refitting the brake plate and rotating with brake slightly on so the shoes rubbed on the emery paper. Checked & re did until sufficient material had been ground off to show complete contact with the drum. Ball aching but was necessary to have a decent brake.
By the way it was NOT hitchcocks parts, as I was in a big hurry the relining was done (very badly) by a well known reliner who I will not be using again. Looked very similar to the ones in the pics.
User avatar
By Tomshayes1
#83250
On my 53 Meteor the left drum (sitting on the bike) has barely discernable lever movement.. I adjust the brake untill the brake is fully on and then back the cable off untill the wheel spins freely but that gives too much slack in the cable.... Any ideas what could be causing it?... The right drum seems fine..

Tom
User avatar
By Davedup
#83252
Beezabryan wrote:
Tue May 28, 2019 11:05 am
That is a lumpy lining problem.
Needs the lining/ shoes made concentric with the drum. I did it by sticking strips of emery paper inside the drum, refitting the brake plate and rotating with brake slightly on so the shoes rubbed on the emery paper. Checked & re did until sufficient material had been ground off to show complete contact with the drum. Ball aching but was necessary to have a decent brake.
By the way it was NOT hitchcocks parts, as I was in a big hurry the relining was done (very badly) by a well known reliner who I will not be using again. Looked very similar to the ones in the pics.
Thanks Beezabryan looks like it's out with the emery paper then!

Dave
By VicMaF
#83258
Hi everyone Randomly the stop light get stuck on. I would like to check the connector at the end of the front brake microswitch but I dont know where it is I can follow the wire from the front lever to the point it disappear inside the frame but I cant find the end of it Can anyone help me?
Thanks


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User avatar
By Davedup
#83260
Had a look at the shoes and when a straight edge is put along side you can see that the shoes are higher on the outside than in the centre.
If I order another set, are they likely to be the same?

Dave
User avatar
By Davedup
#83262
Davedup wrote:
Tue May 28, 2019 4:00 pm
Had a look at the shoes and when a straight edge is put along side you can see that the shoes are higher on the outside than in the centre.
If I order another set, are they likely to be the same?

Dave
Have just gone back to the old riveted pair.
They are getting low but serviceable.
By Marko
#83273
Hi, when I 1st got my Connie the front brakes were useless - it was fitted with relined shoes (from a well known brake relining place). I replaced the shoes with Indian made 6" shoes. The front brake now outperforms the 7"TLS brake fitted to my 60s Triumph twin. FWIW I recall Paul Henshaw sorting out some brake shoes in a video a while back - i'm pretty sure it was with getting the linings to make full contact with the brake drum

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